It’s Monday and a collection of Sunday safaris.

I hope you are keeping happy and healthy! Here in the Luangwa, well it’s much the same as ever: the birds are singing, the baboons are barking and the hippos are grunting. The only thing missing is the gentle hum of the goings on of the camp… here’s hoping we can get back to normal sooner rather than later. So before I start today I would like to say an enormous thank you to the outpouring of well wishes and concerns that we have had from everyone. A huge thank you also goes out to everyone who has written stories for the It’s Monday through our ongoing Safari Dreaming campaign and I look forward to reading many more. If you haven’t heard about the Safari Dreaming campaign, take a look at this: Keep the African dream alive!

This week it is my turn though so here goes:

Gloves off and no lies life has calmed down significantly for Rob and I over the last month or so and as a result we made the decision that given neither of us had done an actual game drive for some 3-4 years (can you imagine!?) that we would start a little family tradition as part of our COVID-19 routine, which is every Sunday morning we pack up a breakfast and as soon as Jack is awake we head out into the park for a little pootle and breakfast with a view.

Safaris with a 3 year old certainly take a slightly different approach to what they used to with the rather limited attention span and sitting at a sighting involves a lot of “Why” questions about the animal and surrounding landscape. Rob and I as a result have had to take turns to brush up on our geography knowledge (I have had a lot of questions about the moon and sun and the rain and the clouds) and Rob has been having to answer a whole host of brilliant questions asked by a young mind. Sadly, though we don’t have answers to all of the questions and so the response is simply “because that is the way it is”. Back to school it is for us!

Given the approach to our safaris I am unable to write an entire its Monday about one single outing but instead need to cover a collection of Sundays to be able to put this together. The getting out of bed is the hardest thing and takes some convincing but eventually once his stuffed lion gets up Jack is on his feet and running out the door before I can even get sun cream on him. Everything ready we pack the car up looking like we are setting off for a week away and not just a few hours in the National Park but let’s face it better to have it and not need it than the other way round!

We have had some lovely sightings including some very patient zebras who were more than happy to stand still for us to watch them rather than running off into the thickets.

Giraffes and elephants are always intrigued by us and happily oblige to the slightly noisy little person in the front of the car. The predators have been proving a little elusive which is not surprising but just getting out into the park is treat enough in itself.

Out of the car Rob has been busy showing Jack what lion footprints look like and we were incredibly fortunate to have some wonderful viewing of Humphrey the Hippo before we even started our game drive. Not to mention the obligatory cooked breakfast which is a welcome break for all of us as we find a wonderful open and shady spot and get down from the car for a sausage sandwich and a cup of coffee.

Whilst nothing about the current situation is ideal, we have at least been able to appreciate a few small benefits and hope that we will be able to continue to show and excite Jack with all that this wonderful National park has to offer. So on that note all that is left for me to say is to bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you all have a wonderful week ahead with plenty of smiles and laughter. Stay healthy and safe and don’t forget to look after one another.

Posted in 2020, It's Monday | Comments closed

Safari Dreaming…

We hope you are well and in good health.

With the current doom and gloom flooding us all, we would like your help to create something positive.
If you have visited us in the past, we would love to hear about it, so please send us your fondest RPS memories.

Help us brighten the day for someone with a photo, poem, anecdote, phrase, story or whatever you feel like. We will share these via our various social media platforms.

Lets keep the dream of Africa alive!

Please send the above on to:

Do let us know if you are happy to have your name included or rather prefer to be an anonymous influencer…

We look forward to receiving your memories and sharing them with the world.

Thank you from all of us at RPS – we miss you!

Warm and healthy wishes,

The RPS Team

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Its Monday 6th April and an Nkwali Safari

I hope you are coping well with life in isolation and that hopefully this newsletter will add a little light and change to the day. Here in the Luangwa we have a wonderful round up from Robert and Marijke Van Oordt, who were our very last guests at Nkwali Camp before we had to sadly close our doors due to the various lockdowns and travel bans. Robert and Marjike over to you:

“Somewhere I read the following which I would like to share with you:

Some people think you should have two faces, one for yourself and one for the outside world. That’s what makes animals different from us. They have one face…

We spent two gorgeous weeks at Nkwali Camp in a charming chalet with thatched roof, where we had an unobstructed and mesmerizing view of the wide and fast-flowing Luangwa River. Every afternoon a large monitor lizard rested on the bank of the river, waiting for edibles to come his way. Baby skinks scuttled across the grass and baboons checked on us from a safe distance – high up in the tree hanging over the water. Humphrey, the camp hippo, who lives or rather hides in a large lagoon covered with beautiful light-green Nile cabbage, only left us his deep and easily recognizable tracks in front of our chalet on his nocturnal jaunt to the river. But he was kind enough to show himself the day we left! And what a large beast he is, covered with Nile cabbage as if he was off to a wedding in his most festive attire.

Every day at 06.00 a lovely ten-minute ride by boat would take us to the “harbour” – a rather grand word for the steep slippery riverbank – extra slippery after the nocturnal rains. But we would not have wished for a jetty and a railing – this is nature at its best. Then we would climb into our faithful mud- and deep-water-proof jeep, already filled with goodies for a coffee break and driven by our very knowledgeable and indefatigable guide Kiki.

Paul Theroux calls Africa the Kingdom of light and a nearly lost paradise – we couldn’t agree more. Against the sweeping background of the green savannah dotted with glorious morning-glory shrubs, stumps of dead mopane tree and a grandiose baobab, the impalas, puku and baboons, all with babies, would greet us, the impalas prancing as fast and high as they could, racing around and around in large circles, thoroughly enjoying themselves and delighting us. Screeching male baboons chased each other fiercely in their fight for supremacy and the winner immediately claimed his trophy – his female of choice – as the tiny weeny baby baboons found safety under their mother’s belly.

Apart from the usual but always exhilarating sightings of elephants, zebra, impala, giraffe and the ubiquitous Guinea fowl with their fluorescent blue necks – always in large numbers and with lovely babies – we had some extraordinary surprises.

One morning we spotted a large pack of wild dogs who apparently had just finished off a kill and were resting, blood-stained, under the trees, while two of them, still hungry, licked the bones. We heard and saw two giant eagle owls hooting to each other from separate trees – most likely about the whereabouts of snacks in the undergrowth. The discovery of two young leopards playfighting on a branch of a mopane tree did not cease to excite us and our iPhones and camera tried in vain to get a sharp image. And then four lionesses walked in front of our jeep to their hunting ground while two males passed us very close by as unconcerned as can be…

We were constantly treated to an endless variety of colourful birds: the storks: yellow billed, saddle billed, open billed; the bee-eaters: European, white fronted, swallow-tailed, and the little bee-eater; the pied kingfisher and the spectacularly light blue woodland kingfisher; the crowned cranes; the ground and red-horned hornbills, the blue waxbill; not to forget the herons, bateleur eagles, western banded snake eagles, vultures, weavers and lapwings and many many more.

We would have stayed longer if the closure of airports and the cancellation of flights had not forced us to leave before plan. We sincerely hope that at some point this dreadful life changing global disaster will be overcome and life will return to normal.

Our thoughts and deep respect are with everybody affected by this terrible crisis and with the many professionals and volunteers who are risking their life to help where they can. I would like to end with a fitting quote from Charles Dickens:

No one is useless in this world who lightens the burdens of another. ”

Amazing! Thank you so very much for that Robert and Marjike. The only thing that remains for me to say is a very fond and warm farewell and hope that you have a wonderful week with smiles and laughter and plenty of hand cleaning and sanitizing. Stay well and look after one another, and we will be back again next week with more updates from us here at Robin Pope Safaris.

Posted in 2020, It's Monday | Comments closed

Its Monday 30 December and a round up of the festivities

I do hope that you are all fabulously well, have had a wonderful Christmas and are now fully gearing up for seeing in the new year with enormous excitement and gusto. It would appear that it was a fantastic week all round with good food, plenty of smiles and laughter and not to mention some extraordinary game viewing. The question is where do we start?

In the Luangwa despite some good rain including a shower at the Christmas Eve carols sadly bringing the event to an early finish. The guests have had some incredible sightings and it would appear that the Luangwa leopards decided that this was going to be their week and they were really going to show off….. we had a family of 11 staying with us at Nkwali who over dinner on Christmas Eve decided that their Christmas day sighting needed to be a leopard.


Christmas day arrived and their morning game drive included 5 separate leopard sightings. Including one leopard looking a little bleak about things as it had successfully made a kill and was getting all ready to tuck in when 5 hyenas pitched up to the party uninvited and stole the kill. The hyenas brazenly ate it within view of the poor leopard who eventually walked away sulking. What a way to start Christmas day and then to return to camp to the bubbles flowing and the turkey plus all the trimmings ready for a full Christmas lunch, needless to say a nice long siesta was enjoyed by all.

Along with the incredible amount of leopard sightings the guests have also been spoilt with some very sleepy lions – maybe they were just doing what most of us were doing after Christmas lunch and just sleeping off a rather enormous feast!


There were also some great sightings of some sleepy wild dogs who started off by lazing around but then decided that they would have a quick stretch and go and harass the neighbours! The rest of the wildlife has also been out in force with elephants, impala, warthogs and giraffes all showing off for us in copious amounts. Almost as if they are all sending the year off in great fashion.


Over in Malawi, the camps were also fashionably festive. At Pumulani, our neighbours from the Holy Trinity Choir entranced guests and staff alike with Malawian carols on Christmas Eve. Luckily Santa also brought beautiful weather for the 25th and guests spent most the day on the beach, eating, swimming, kayaking, eating again, resting, reading and laughing.

Fortunately Dasher, Dancer & Prancer left Kuthengo Camp early on the 25th as we do not feel they would have much enjoyed the lion sightings our guests had on Christmas morning. However, in the same light, the lions I am sure would have loved chef Dickson’s Christmas lunch.

Meanwhile at Mkulumadzi, the bush turned so green after the recent rains that we could barely tell the Christmas tree from the bush beyond.

Gosh so there you have it, I do hope that everyone has had an equally wonderful Christmas and at this point all that remains is for the entire RPS team to wish you all a Happy New Year and all the very best for 2020. We will be back with more news in the new year but in the meantime wish you all the smiles, laughter and happiness that you all deserve over the festive period and as always don’t forget to look after one another!

Posted in 2019, It's Monday | Comments closed

NEW: Focus on Conservation

A unique opportunity to spend a week in Malawi exploring the amazing work African Parks have done and continue to do, specifically in Majete Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park. You will be able to spend some time with various team members from African Parks and have some hands-on experience of what they do.

If conservation is an area of interest, then this safari will certainly be one you want to consider. Malawi has an incredible story to share with the world on various conservation success stories that have been achieved and lots more to be achieved.

Malawi is a landlocked country, running down the end of the Great Rift Valley. Dominated by Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa, the surrounding country is exceptionally beautiful with dramatic scenery that includes rocky outcrops, high mountains, plateaus and views across what is considered Africa’s most beautiful lake. Malawi is known as the “Warm Heart of Africa” and as people, the Malawians live up to this name. They are extremely friendly and welcoming. There are many market scenes, roadside stalls, cottage industries that a visitor can comfortably visit. With both the scenery and the culture Malawi is a great country to drive in.

For more information about this safari contact us or download the itinerary here!

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Warm Heart Christmas Safari

With the Christmas just around the corner, is your festive season getaway booked already? Why not make it a Green Christmas this year and venture out to Malawi for a fabulous bush & beach holiday complete with all the festive cheer!

Why visit Malawi during the ‘green season’? There are so many great reasons why, but here are a few to start with:

• It’s a period of revitalization… plenty of new growth, dramatic skies & vibrant colours (the most outstanding being the emerald green! – with the purples, pinks and yellows of new flowers sprouting through).
• Influx of migratory birds with spirals of migrating storks, cuckoos and other “specials”.
• Butterflies escape their cocoons and flitter about everywhere creating a woodland wonderland.
• Great game viewing experiences.
• Fewer people around, making for more exclusive feel of all areas.

Our combination of bush and beach destinations offers the perfect chance to experience the best of both worlds, starting off with a trip into the wilderness, visiting Mkulumadzi Lodge in Majete Wildlife Reserve followed by Kuthengo Camp, and ending off at Pumulani Lodge on Lake Malawi.

Malawi is known as the “Warm Heart of Africa” and as people, the Malawians live up to this name. They are extremely friendly and welcoming. There are many market scenes, road side stalls, cottage industries that a visitor can comfortably visit. With both the scenery and the culture Malawi is a great country to make memories during ‘the most wonderful time of the year’!

For more information, download the itinerary or contact us.

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Its Monday and a trip to Stanley Safari Lodge

I hope that you are all splendidly well and have had a lovely weekend and those of you who are in Europe are surviving the heat! Ironically, we are in the depths of winter here, so we are doing our best to wrap up as warm as possible, especially on those early morning game drives. However, as you are all aware, I am happy to talk about the weather but really that is not what we are here for… David Rogers and his family recently spent a few days at Stanley Safari Lodge enjoying the camp and the Victoria Falls. They have been kind enough to share these wonderful photos with us as well as a few words. David over to you:

“This year in June I had the great pleasure of visiting Stanley Safari Lodge in Livingstone with my family. The lodge has a great view down towards the town and the Victoria Falls itself and has a real safari atmosphere which ties in brilliantly with the rest of the Robin Pope Safaris camps. At Robin Pope Safaris camps I always find myself among like-minded people and this was no exception. In the evening we were expertly hosted by Jonathon Aldous and his wife Sylvia and sat round the fire chatting to other guests about their safari experiences in South Luangwa
























The highlight of our stay was our visit to the Victoria Falls. No matter how many times I visit this World Heritage site it always takes my breath away. At 1708 metres wide with 108 metres in height this is the largest waterfall in the world and is hugely spectacular.





























Aside from walking along the spray drenched paths near the falls, it is also possible to walk down to the Boiling Pot and photograph up towards the falls. It’s a steep but satisfying way to enjoy the falls. Flying in a helicopter or microlight is also awesome but take note that if you want to use your own camera this is not allowed on microlight flights. I have done quite a bit of photography of the falls — in the air and on the ground — and find that it’s is in the mornings when the plume of spray and the rainbow is at its best. A top tip is to time your visit for the period around full moon and you may be able to photograph the lunar rainbow. The best time to do this is April or May when the water is high and there is also likely to be clear skies


















On this trip we took the opportunity of visiting Livingstone Island where the explorer first saw the falls. We headed off by boat to the island and were led to the very edge of the falls by a very capable set of guides. The water was flooding over the Eastern Cataract and the boys had a thrilling swimming in a pool right on the edge of the falls. We also took the boys white water rafting — it was an awesome experience for me; this is still the most exciting activity at Victoria Falls.”













Thanks David this sounds absolutely wonderful and we are so delighted that you enjoyed your stay with us. Moving North to the Luangwa Valley, it has also been rather busy with a whole host of incredible sightings, Tena Tena, Nkwali and Nsefu have all enjoyed leopard sightings from camp this week. Tena Tena however won with 2 separate sightings, the first being a big male leopard strutting his stuff up and down the riverbank opposite from camp making sure that everyone knew that it was his patch. Then as if that wasn’t good enough the guests in Room 6 heard the puku alarm calling just after dinner and looked out and saw a lovely female just in front of their room. She had obviously just finished having a drink and was walking from the waters’ edge across the beach straight towards the room! Gosh what an amazing sighting.

Anyway, enough of all of that, I should definitely get on with my day and leave you all to yours. I hope that you all have an absolutely fabulous week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.











Posted in 2019 | Comments closed

Its Monday and a Big 5 Bonanza at Mkulumadzi

I do hope that you are all well and have had a wonderful weekend; and sitting comfortably. This week we are hearing from Steph on what is happening at Mkulumadzi in Majete, Malawi.

” ‘Confucius say, ‘Roads were made for journeys…not destinations.’

The journey to Mkulumadzi was just about as rewarding as the actual destination! Having set off a little later than planned due to delayed flights, we made our way from the city of Blantyre, down the long and winding escarpments, taking in the sights and sounds of village life. Although we were all anxious to get to our destination, the sunset was a sight for sore eyes and a photo opportunity we could not pass up on. Our driver was only too happy to comply and we had a wonderful time watching the sun as it lit up the valley in shades of orange, yellow and crimson.




















We reached Majete Wildlife Reserve just after dark. Once in the reserve, the drive to the lodge was another 30 minutes and at this point we were all quite disappointed that our late departure from Blantyre had cost us an evening game drive. We were however pleasantly compensated when we turned a corner and came face to face with 2 beautiful lionesses, preening themselves in the middle of the road. We couldn’t have asked for a better journey… or better welcoming committee!












The rains had turned Majete lush and green, but has not compromised the wildlife sightings which have been excellent!













We were fortunate enough to witness something rather special on our morning game drive…

It all began with the usual 5am wake-up call, followed by a quick breakfast and a cuppa before heading out into the park. During the drive, the antelopes of Majete really put on a show for us – sable, nyala, kudu, bush buck, waterbuck and impala all making an appearance within the first hour. Mali, our safari guide, suggested we have our morning tea break on the Majete airstrip – this may sound strange, but he assured us that is was quite a hub of activity and a popular place to see giraffe. True to form, we arrived at the airstrip to see it littered with warthogs, impala and giraffe! Way to go Mali!








After the morning tea break, it was back to business. Mali asked if there were any special requests in terms of what we would like to see. Leopard was top of the list as the night before we had been treated to a lovely lion sighting. Mali explained that although he was not ruling out seeing a leopard, they had however been quite elusive over the past few weeks. Less than 5 minutes later, lo and behold, we came across a beautiful leopard, enjoying the early morning sun! We were in awe and thus the photographic evidence is a little shaky however none the less, here it is!













As we continued our drive, we had another Big 5 experience, with some fantastic elephant sightings, including a very playful young male. The guy was so intrigued with our game viewer that he proceeded to block the road for a good 10 minutes while he took a closer look. Not that any of us were complaining!













Once the young elephant had had his fill, he moved on and we then began to make our way back to the lodge, only to find yet another member of the big 5! Out on the river bed in front of the dining area, a small herd of buffalo. We sat and watched the herd all come down for a drink before sauntering back into the bush. Our morning could not have gotten any better!













After lunch and a quick siesta, we were out in the park, making our way to the jetty for an afternoon of boating. Being out on the river is indescribably peaceful and from the boat we saw an array of bird life and plains game as well as a rather prehistoric looking crocodile who was sunning himself on the river bed without a care in the world.




















Mali then docked on a small sandbank on the river for sundowners, where we enjoyed our G&Ts while watching yet another glorious sunset.













We were not so lucky seeing the 5th member of the Big 5, the elusive rhinoceros, but we were very aware of their presence, having come across several tracks.

That marked the end of our time at Mkulumadzi but re-affirmed our need to return!”

Thanks, so much Steph for sharing this with us; it certainly sounds like the wildlife and camp is going from strength to strength. As we have been offered such a lovely story from Malawi, I am going to leave you on that note and bid you all a very fond farewell. Have a fantastic week with lots of smiles and laughter.



Posted in 2019, It's Monday | Comments closed

It’s Monday and a treat for all the senses at Kuthengo

I do hope that you are all fabulously well and have had another smashing weekend and are ready and raring for the week ahead. Here in Zambia well winter has arrived and whilst most guests are enjoying the pleasant temperatures the rest of us are wrapped up as if we were entering the arctic – we really are rather pathetic! Anyways it’s not about any of that today we are going to scoot over to Kuthengo and hear from Steph who is part of the marketing team and has recently been to stay there for a few days. Steph over to you:

“The holiday doesn’t start as you walk into your tent at Kuthengo. The journey in is equally as wonderful, with so much to see on the drive in through Liwonde, sneaking a peak at authentic Malawi life and then eventually reaching the banks of the impressive Shire River. The 45 minute boat transfer to camp is in its self a fantastic game viewing experience seeing crocodiles basking on the banks of the river, elephants taking a dip as well as countless species of birds however to be honest with you from my perspective it was the hippos that stole the show. They were quite literally everywhere! The sheer quantity was mind boggling, and let me tell, you they do not let you forget that they around as the gentle snorts and grunts offer a back drop to the peace and quiet of the bush. 


















































Before we knew it though we had arrived in Kuthengo and were greeted with cool flannels and iced tea whilst we were briefed about the camp and discussed our plans for the afternoon. After a delicious lunch, heavenly siesta and scrumptious high tea it was time for our game drive.
Patrick was our guide and he was accompanied by Felix, a scout from African Parks, the organization who has been managing Liwonde National Park for a few years now. They made a fantastic pair and kept us entertained with stories from the bush. After about 10 minutes, Patrick suddenly stopped the car. There was a peculiar sound coming from above, which was no doubt a bird, but which one was it? After several failed attempts at guessing what species of bird it was, Patrick took us closer to the tree, and perched on a branch were 2 glorious ground hornbills! On closer inspection, we discovered that one of the hornbills had their lunch dangling from his beak and seemed to have no intention of sharing it with his partner, who looked on rather enviously!



















After we had had our fill of gawking at the hornbills we decided to move on and less than 20 metres away, we came across another pair of birds perched on a tree, this time it was 2 adult fish eagles who were not as obliging as the hornbills had been and flew away as soon as we got closer. The birding in Liwonde really is wonderful and we were spoilt with countless sightings of a variety of species including African grey parrots, a lone marabou stork and countless bee eaters and more. Liwonde really is a birders paradise.



















After a classic African sunset accompanied with a Gin and Tonic we watched as another day drew to a close and then headed back to camp having the most wonderful sighting of a porcupine on the way – a completely underrated animal they are wonderful.














The following day we decided that we would have our senses heightened and experience the bush on foot. Heading out before sunrise to treat ourselves with the magic of that early morning in the bush we were rewarded with a sighting of a herd of Hartebeest. The rest of the morning was spent exploring the tracks and signs of the bush and getting a great lesson on the small details that you miss when in game drive car. I really would recommend experiencing the bush in this way to everyone it is incredibly rewarding.





























The rest of our stay was just as rewarding with plenty to see from the small insects and spoor on the walk to the impressively enormous Baobab trees and large herds of elephants. And as if all of that was not enough when back in camp we had the wonderful pool to laze by whilst absorbing the magnificent view of the Shire River and enjoying the company of the other guests and wonderful stories around the camp fire in the evenings. Whilst leaving is never fun it is a foregone conclusion that we will be back again soon and we can’t wait.













Thanks so much Steph sounds like you had a wonderful stay.
So what else to say – well a quick little story from us here in the South Luangwa – Fred came into the office telling me about one of his sightings which quite frankly I have to share. Seeing a leopard is obviously always a highlight. Seeing a leopard making a kill even more so – well listen to this! Fred was out and about and found a leopard stalking impala. Turning off the engine they sat patiently and waited for the action to take place. A burst of energy and flurry of dust and this leopard took down a large male impala just as she had the impala by the neck and was starting to think about the meal ahead of her when a pride of 5 lions muscled in on the action. She let go of the impala and ran for it while the lions took advantage of the situation finished off the kill then proceeded to enjoy their meal. I mean wow talk about drama.




























Many more stories to come but today is not the day we will update you all with more next week. Between now and then sit tight and have a great week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.




Posted in 2019, It's Monday | Comments closed

It’s Monday and Nsefu memory lane with Jo Pope

I do hope that you are all well and sitting comfortably. Today we are hearing from Jo Pope, the original author of Its Mondays; who has leapt back into the driver’s seat for this week as we celebrate Nsefu Camp in its 20th Season.



















“Ten years after Robin started his guiding career in 1976, he was the manager of Nsefu Camp. It was here he spread his management wings, so that when the opportunity for a solo career presented in 1985, he was ready to take it and start Robin Pope Safaris. Robin’s first camp was Tena Tena, some 12 kms from Nsefu Camp.

Nsefu Camp is the oldest tourism camp in Zambia and certainly one of the oldest in Africa. The first Nsefu Camp, a temporary camp, opened north of the present site by Northern Rhodesia Game Department. The camp was used for department officials when on duty.
Turning the camp into a tourist camp, in 1951, was the initiative of Chief Nsefu and profits from the camp went to the Chief. The department assisted with the development of the scheme giving advice, providing the construction and maintenance of access and game viewing roads, the training of Native Authority Game Guards, camp reservations and with publicity.













The camp changed hands, closed, changed hands again and then, after some years of declining tourist numbers, it closed. This was 1997 and here was a chance for Robin Pope Safaris to buy the lease and bring this historical camp into the RPS fold.

The camp however, had hardly changed over the years. The rondavels, the round huts, were the same small huts that had been built in 1951. Back then there were shared ablutions but at some point, a small bathroom had been squeezed into the already small room. Standards had of course changed, and we needed to modernize as best we could without changing the footprint of the rooms. They were considered part of the safari history and not to be touched!

At the time Bruce Rousseau was our pilot and it turned out that also he had a design qualification. So, after his days flying, he would help us look at our design options. In the end, our only option was to add a bathroom at the back and create big windows. Nsefu would not loose it’s historical buildings but there would space and airiness added to the rooms.














































Running a busy safari company is a full-time occupation but during the year of 1998 we added the task of renovating Nsefu to the management team. For those who spent more time behind a desk at Nkwali’s HQ than they liked, it was wonderful to have to drive up to Nsefu two or three times a week. Work progressed through the dry season and into the rains.

During the rains, Robin and I drove to Johannesburg to buy the interiors and fixtures and fittings. Our concept was “it is in the ‘50s and we are building our first camp. What would it look like?”. So, we found old fashioned brass clunk/click type light switches. We sourced antique style taps, old silver cutlery and serving dishes. We even found a windup gramophone that worked and some 78 rpm records. We had great fun scouring antique shops for these items. I had it in my head that we needed to reflect the colours of the bush – the green sage of the dry lagoons and the silver of the dead mopane and leadwoods on the plain behind camp. We went to dozens of material shops looking for just the right green but failed again and again. It was anxious making and of course I could have dropped the concept and thought of something else, but that did not occur to me. On our way back through Harare, we stopped for some food and whilst I shopped, Robin wandered into a small material shop next door. And there it was – the exact green in old fashioned strips and checks. The bedcovers and curtains were going to be perfect. It’s all in the detail!

Nsefu opened on time but as with any camp opening, only just in time. We were extremely proud of what we had created.

Not sure what the wildlife made of the scratchy Ave Maria recitals we played on our wind up every afternoon, but we loved it.

Today Nsefu continues to thrive. It is 20 years since Robin Pope Safaris reopened the camp and I love to think of all the people from around the world that have since enjoyed the camp and the amazing area. But then I go back further and remember that the first brick was laid nearly 70 years ago. Just how many tourists have visited Nsefu Camp over the years?”













Wow thanks so much Jo! Nsefu certainly has a rich history, one that has touched and impacted many lives. We continue to enjoy the camp and all who come through its doors. On that nostalgic note, I shall bid you all a very fond ‘till next week’ – have a fabulous time with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.







Posted in 2019, It's Monday | Comments closed

Its Monday and what a great start to the season

I hope that everyone is fabulously well and ready and raring to hear from Sarah and Milo in Zimbabwe; as John’s Camp has opened for the season, and well has done so in style. Sarah and Milo – over to you:

“From a successful few weeks setting up camp to incredible sightings it’s been a great start to the season!

As you’ll know from our last bit of news, a lot goes into setting up a camp in a remote setting. The last week of April saw the remainder of the John’s Camp team return to their second home, Mana Pools to finish the job! We thought we’d give you a little sneak peek into the process.

























































After a busy few days, we welcomed our first guests into camp.

The game viewing has been off to a great start – a true reminder of how wild this part of Zimbabwe really is! Dave Amyot, our resident guide captured some of these wonderful moments on video including lion calling in the dead of night {video} and an early morning sighting of a male lion crossing the flood plain {video} – much to the impala’s dislike.

John Stevens and his guests were in camp last week and were lucky to come across a cheetah defending its kill from vultures while on a game drive. These pictures, courtesy of John, speak for themselves!”




















































Wow – amazing! Thanks so much for sharing that with us Sarah & Milo; what an incredible way to start the season. With several months of fabulous game viewing ahead of us, we can not wait to hear more news from you. To be honest with you, I don’t think that there is anything that can follow on from that… So I shall graciously bow out and bid you all a very fond farewell, with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.







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Its Monday and we head to the Falls!

I do hope that you are all well and have had a splendid weekend. Well, news from the Luangwa Valley this week is going to be a little on the sparse side as we are heading to Livingstone. Johnathan at Stanley Safari Lodge is sharing with us what they have been up to; besides of course from sipping gin and tonics in camp and looking down onto that glorious view of the mist that rises from the Victoria Falls. So Johnathan, over to you:

“Can you believe it’s only a month to mid-winter in the Southern Hemisphere and of course mid-summer in the North, nearly half the year is gone…

Here in Livingstone, the days are shorter, and the sun has lost some of that intense heat experienced in the summer months; but the weather is beautiful with mild days, clear skies and cool evenings.

The bush is still green after late rain and the Zambezi River is still running strongly so the Falls are looking spectacular and the “smoke that thunders” is hanging high over the water. Everyone visiting the Falls for a closer look returns to camp in absolute awe of the power, noise and quantity of water that races over the edge and down into the gorge. They also come back a little on the soggy side, as this time of the year there is no point in pretending that you have a chance to stay dry; you may as well accept a drenching and enjoy the thrill of the experience.

What a great time to be visiting this area. Who would know better than our repeat guests Jonathan & Christine Cox, visiting us often from Cornwall in the UK to our other Robin Pope Safaris camps – having last been to Stanley Safari Lodge in 2004. Having just spent 10 days in the Luangwa Valley, they chose to end their trip with a relaxing stay here. Not only getting to see the Falls and experience Livingstone and all it has to offer, but also to see some of the staff that are still here from when they last visited us.

It is always so wonderful to have so many familiar faces coming through to see us as it’s like welcoming family back. We look forward to welcoming many more familiar faces and new ones throughout the course of the year.”

Johnathan thanks so much for that, its always lovely to hear from you guys and we look forward to more tales as the season progresses.

Lastly a little update… We have over the last couple of years been working with a wonderful couple, Will and Lianne Steenkamp (best known for their multiple award-winning documentary Vanishing Kings and their work for the BBC’s Planet Earth series). They have been doing our Safari Diaries as well as some of our camp videos. Having come back to the Luangwa Valley time after time, they have decided to make this their second home. During the season they can be found filming in the Nsefu Sector, not only to keep the footage coming to you all on a weekly basis, but also filming their own incredible leopard film amongst others. In between all of this, they have recently been dashing around our camps taking new footage for any of you curious to have a scenic tour of our world, or just take a trip down memory lane – here is a sneak a peek: RPS Collection.

On that note, I shall bid you a fond farewell and keep all other news from the Luangwa to myself till next Monday. Between now and then, take care, have fun and don’t forget to look after each other.





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It’s Monday and the lost supper

I do hope that you are all splendidly well and are ready for another killer week of sightings in the South Luangwa. This week we are hearing from Tom Hardy along with some photos from Margaret Croft who have recently stayed with us at Robins House and experienced some incredible sightings so Tom and Margaret I am handing the story telling to you today:

“Our afternoon game drive had gone well, and we’d enjoyed our sundowners standing on the banks of the Luangwa River watching the bee-eaters posing on the trees. As it grew darker we set off for the evening drive with Daniel sweeping the searchlight, and our guide Fred keeping a sharp eye open for anything of interest. We knew that there were a couple of leopards in the area and hoped to see one, but it was not until we were nearly back to the boat that Fred called: ‘There’s a leopard over there to the left. No, it’s an impala – no, it’s a leopard AND an impala!’


We stopped close by, and as the light picked them out we saw a young leopard holding a fully gown impala by the throat. The impala was not yet dead, and being bigger than the leopard he was putting up a brave fight. Several times he attempted to stand and get away, but the leopard hung on grimly. Eventually the impala keeled over and lay on his side, with the leopard still holding on firmly to the throat.

Suddenly, from out of the gloom, up trotted one of the lionesses of the local pride. The leopard vanished in the opposite direction, and the lioness took possession of the now exhausted impala. She held it firmly, tossed it around a couple of times and ensured it was finally dead. The other four lionesses of the pride also appeared one by one, and the five of them settled down to enjoy their nice fresh supper.

We watched for some fifteen minutes as the lions ate. We were stunned by the drama of the kill, and we all felt sad for the leopard who’d had the skill to catch the impala in the first place, but had not had the chance to benefit from her efforts. Returning to Robin’s House for dinner and a smiling welcome from hostess Aggie, we felt privileged to have watched such a drama, and thankful that obtaining our own supper through Stephen’s and Michael’s exemplary service was a lot less trouble than the leopard had had!

As a postscript, four days later we were fortunate enough to see another leopard having just caught an impala in very much the same area. This time the leopard was able to kill the impala more quickly, and there was a muted cheer from our group as we saw her dragging the dead carcass off towards the trees, where she would be able to stash it safely in the thickets away from any troublesome lions.

Photos: Margaret Croft
Text: Tom Hardy

Wow – really nothing else to say is there!! Thank you so very much Margaret and Tom what an incredible trip you had and thank you so very much for sharing with us we really appreciate it.

To be honest with you not much left for me to say after that except here it is all systems go we are opening Tena Tena, Nsefu and Luangwa Bush Camping on Wednesday so we are all running around making the final touches and before you know it we will be launched into peak season.

So without any further procrastination I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and wish you all a splendid week with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.













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Its Monday and a cracking week in the Luangwa!

I do hope that you are all splendidly well and have had a lovely weekend; now sitting comfortably ready and raring for the week ahead. In the Luangwa we are hurtling towards the beginning of the peak season and getting Nsefu and Tena open. Very excitingly, Rob and I are heading up there for our first trip of the season and to see the camps and get back into the Nsefu sector. I am sure that I will update you with all the news from our trip next week, but for now let’s just take a quick moment for the most magnificent week of sightings at Nkwali.

We had some guests here Toby and Olivia who were on their first ever safari; and on their first drive with Chilumba they witnessed an entire leopard hunt and kill from start to finish.






























Then as if that was not enough, on their second night drive they witnessed another entire leopard kill from start to finish. At this point I was wandering if the incredible sightings were ever going to stop.













To top it all off, on their third night drive they found the leopard with her kill and adult cub having a little bit of an interaction with a hyena who was trying to muscle in on their dinner. Not only was there this interaction but also some wonderful mum and cub interaction which is always just so wonderful to see especially with creatures that are usually solitary.











































In between all the leopard kills and sightings, there was also plenty of other wonderful plains game sightings. I think really the Luangwa massively showed off on this occasion for our newbies on safari… Also thank you so much Toby and Olivia for sharing your photos with us – now we really do believe the sightings.

















Other than some extraordinary leopard sightings Nkwali has been inundated with elephants and mongooses; quite the extremes on size. The elephants are not making it particularly easy to get around, but who cares, they are wonderful to watch and so we are making the most of just enjoying their presence.







On a totally different end of the spectrum, lets give you some birding information. Last Saturday it was Global Birding Day and there were various teams out in different areas of the park just concentrating on birding. From RPS we had Braston out with some of our guests and then the second team was Jason with Kanga, Chilumba and Cannan. Braston’s team got 97 different species on their morning drive and Jason’s team managed 110 species. Among the sightings, they saw crowned eagle on a nest and also some swallow tailed bee-eaters.

Global Birding Day is set up by The Cornell Lab and all of the data collected worldwide is uploaded onto their system to help with their various ornithology projects. It’s incredible the amount of information and participants. Take a look at this link to read up more about it and next year you can participate from home

Right, so on that note I think that I am going to leave you all to it and hopefully next year some of you might dust off your binoculars at home and have a look in the garden to see how many different species of birds you actually have at home – you may well be surprised. In the meantime, I hope that you all have a wonderful week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.



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It’s Monday and Happy 1st Birthday Kuthengo

I do hope that you are all well and sitting comfortably, ready to grab the new week with the usual gust and excitement. Here in Zambia, well there is a definite chill in the air in the mornings which we are all really enjoying. The crisp air certainly marks the close of the rainy season. The Kawaluzi bridge is in and the teams are up at Nsefu and Tena getting started on building their camps for the new season. I am afraid to say that access is still limited as the road has not yet been put in and Willie (our Nsefu manager) was seen climbing out of the car a couple of afternoons ago grasping the base of his back and doing some fabulous stretches before he was able to wander over to the office. Having seen that I have opted to wait a little while before heading up there as not sure my back could take the bumps!

This however is not what I am writing to you all about as this week it’s all about celebrating Kuthengo Camps’ 1st ‘birthday’! It seems like just yesterday that our newest camp opened its doors to guests, and what a fabulous year it has had!

Guests have been treated to some special memories and sightings and the camp has really got off to a wonderful start. The views across the Shire River from your safari tent is wonderful not to mention the vast expanse of skies which offer some incredible star gazing in the evenings. There is no wander that when the famous hunter and explorer Henry Faulkner was sent to search for David Livingstone, and travelled along the Shire river, commented on the beauty of the area and abundance of wildlife there. Liwonde National Park is a rare example of untouched natural beauty and wilderness and we couldn’t resist making the most of this and Kuthengo (the translation means the wild) is in a perfect location to enjoy all that this area has to offer, including the most magnificent sunrises and sunsets along the river.






















The game viewing has blossomed with large herds of elephants being seen along the banks of the Shire river as well as the introduction of cheetah into the National Park making this the only place in Malawi to have these wonderful predators. Frequent visitors to camp include sable, waterbuck and the surrounding area is littered with the varying plains game, not to mention the occasional hyena that can be heard whooping during the night and the hippos that munch the grass around the tents.

































Looking back through the photos it is hard to believe that just over a year ago Kuthengo was nothing but a building site just take a look at some of the before and after photos which help show just how much has happened in our little corner of paradise.


























































Since opening its doors last year, the camp has continued to evolve and upgrade with the addition of a glorious plunge pool to help guests cool down in the hotter months of the year as well as our new hand crafted boat which takes guests out on some breath taking river safaris.













Whether it’s sitting on your private deck enjoying the view or being out and about in the park taking in the wildlife, a visit to Kuthengo is definitely a treat and after a year of sharing this wonderful place with our guests we look forward to many more years in the future.












So there you have it for this week another fab week behind us and lets look forward to what this week has in store for us. Between now and then I hope that you all have a fabulous time with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.



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It’s Monday and a family affair at John’s Camp!

I hope that you are all splendidly well and have had a lovely weekend. This week we are heading across to Zimbabwe to hear from Sarah and Milo and the rest of the John’s Camp team.

With the start of the new season literally around the corner, the team behind John’s Camp are at it again! The rainy season in Zimbabwe is typically from December to March/April, during which the camp is closed due to the wet conditions making camp inaccessible. The bush also becomes very dense so getting around the Mana Pools National Park and spotting game is no easy feat! That being said, the end of the green season is a beautiful time of year – still sunny and warm with a slight coolness in the evenings.

At the end of every season, the entire camp is taken down, packed away and the site returns to its natural state. This means that the months leading up to the new season are filled with sourcing of supplies, maintenance; and of course, getting into Mana to start the process of setting up an entire self-sufficient camp from scratch. As with ever year, the latter was a family affair including John, Milo, Dan and Max – the youngest member of the family being 3 years old.

After putting up a basic camp consisting of dome dents and kitchen area under a shady spot, the team quickly got to work planning, clearing and setting up the water supply.

The bush was not as dense as typically experienced during green season, as the rains have been unusually low this year. This will make for good game viewing this season. The team had some curious visitors during their trip, including an old Dagga Boy (lone bachelor buffalo) and a male lion!

It wasn’t all work and no play, as there is always time for a little fishing! Family time was spent along the river enjoying the tranquility of the surrounding African bush, returning to camp for dinner and a bucket bath. We think Max had the best deal!

Thanks to Sarah & Milo for sharing this news. We are so excited about the new season ahead at Johns Camp and look forward to hearing much more news from the team over the next few months. Over here in the Luangwa, I am not going to delve into too much of what has been happening but shall just finish off with a Gin Sundowners that Matt organized for his Luangwa House guests. Just before the drinks were poured, a pack of wild dogs decided to visit. I mean does it get much better than a gin and tonic, Luangwa sunset and a pack of wild dogs…?

On that note, I am going to bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you all have a fabulous week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter; and don’t forget to look after each other.




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Its Monday and time for some incredible photos

I do hope that you are all well; and have had a wonderful Easter Weekend, with plenty of family time and lots of chocolate. Here in the Luangwa, the Easter bunny came out in full force and hopped across most of our tables, dropping Easter eggs wherever he went. It was a race to gobble them up before the heat melted them, but don’t worry, we managed just fine!

Moving away from the Easter bunny, this week we are hearing from Daniela and Matthias Anger; regular guests of ours, who have recently been to visit and spent just over a week with us at Nkwali. During their stay they had some incredible sightings and have been very kind to share these beautiful photos with us so for this week I am going to let the photos do most of the talking, as really, they do not need words to detract from them.

Wow thank you so very much Daniela, what a beautiful selection of images!

On another note we have a new arrival…

Bertie was driving in to Nkwali last week and in the distance caught a glimpse of a brand-new leopard cub that was making a run for it from mum; but was soon scooped up and swiftly returned to the safety of the bush. Let’s hope that we get to see more of this little family unit as the youngster grows.

So, for this week I think that is all that I need to report on. Between now and next Monday I hope that you all have a fabulous week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.



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Its Monday and what was missing last week has appeared this week

I do hope that you are well and have had a fabulous weekend with lots of smiles and laughter; and are now sitting comfortably ready to read this week’s news from the Luangwa. So what have we been up to? All sorts of shenanigans to be honest with you, but let’s start with letting you all know that Nsefu has now closed after an incredible Green Season – reopening at the end of May. Catherine and the team all came out on Sunday having shut the Nsefu doors for a short stint, before we can get up there by road in 6-8 weeks. We will keep you posted.










On the game viewing front, it would appear the giraffes and the lions have been reading our It’s Monday… After my comment last week about them being somewhat elusive, well this week they have been in the spotlight at both Nkwali and Luangwa River Camp. Chris was first to have a lovely sighting of giraffes who were just happily lazing on the main road, watching what else was going on and not particularly fussed by the approaching vehicle with guests; who although thoroughly enjoyed the sighting needed to get past. Eventually the giraffes got the message and moved on, as Chris advised his guests that there was no pushing them off the road – the animals have the right of way.











At Nkwali we had a day of giraffes just popping up everywhere, it was brilliant! One of those wonderful situations whereby the drive stopped to look at a couple of giraffes and then all of a sudden another, then another and before long there was a complete panorama of giraffe heads peeking over bushes. We have also had some lovely sighting of giraffes on the property behind camp as a stream of male giraffes had discovered a female in oestrous and so were pursuing her at a rather leisurely pace, but it gave the guests some great opportunities to witness the behavioural aspect of the process. The Luangwa House guests have been enjoying watching the giraffes from the comfort and cool of the pool in front of the house.










The lions have also been showing off this week too but have mostly been showing off their new arrivals. Yes, there are lion cubs! We are always enormous fans of the new, small and fluffy arrivals… who wouldn’t be? We have had sightings from both Nkwali and Luangwa River Camp of different cubs, so our guests have been spoilt rotten. Chris was out with his guests from Luangwa River Camp and on the first night they spotted 5 adult lions and 2 sub adults who were eyeing some impalas, but the lions were sadly unsuccessful (lucky impalas!). The following morning they found two females with four tiny little cubs. The cubs were scampering around giving mum and aunt quite a difficult time wanting to play then wanting some milk, it was absolute chaos and the ladies certainly had their work cut out for them.































Simon Cousins is back leading a group of colleagues. When I popped over for tea on Saturday to ask how things were going; I was gleefully informed by one of the members of the group that they had seen a zebra, just one lone zebra all morning. At which point more berating occurred and the truth finally came out that they had also seen lions with cubs. However, I am sure that Simon will fill us in with a more detailed report of his latest trip once he has returned home and I am certain he will have slightly more to report on than one zebra.












Not to forget the other predators, we have had an incredible weekend of sightings with Kanga seeing 3 separate leopards on a morning drive as well as a pack of wild dogs finishing up the last of their breakfast in the form of an impala.















We also have had countless elephants with tiny calves enjoying the shade under mums’ belly, before once again tackling the tall grass and enormous holes in the uneven ground from the rain and adult elephants churning up the mud.

Well I think that we can safely say that it has been a very busy week in the wild and the animals have been on excellent behaviour which is always rather helpful!
Before I sign off for the week, I am thrilled to announce that we have reached our 100th episode of our weekly Safari Diaries! This week is a particularly charming episode featuring Ground Hornbills. Click here to watch: 
So before too much more chat from me, I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a fabulous week with lots of smiles and laughter. Don’t forget to look after one another.

























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Its Monday and news from Norway

I do hope that you are all well and have had a fabulous weekend, and geared up for the week ahead. Here in the Luangwa, we have had some extraordinarily high waters which has been pretty spectacular for boating.

Enough of the Luangwa as let’s face it, I am sure you can all see by the title of my It’s Monday today, we are not going to be having stories from the Luangwa but instead we are heading to significantly cooler climes with some Norwegian news!

After months of planning lots of applications, letters and all the rest of the formalities that go along with obtaining a visa we finally got the go ahead. Matt our Luangwa House host and his family offered to organise for Simon our Luangwa House chef to go and spend a month with them in Norway. What an incredible experience for him! Having never been on a plane before, never having even been on an escalator, I sat down and in huge marker pen wrote down a step by step instruction on how to get on the plane in Lusaka. Then the thought of Simon tackling Dubai dawned on me… Thankfully Matt organised for him to be escorted through the airport and put on the next plane and 21 hours of travelling later he arrived in Norway. The challenge wasn’t over as he had 2 hours stuck at immigration due to one letter being incorrect however he was finally let through and Matt was there to welcome him with extra layers and a familiar face. Fortunately it was a warm day in Norway with temperatures of -5C. Looking exhausted and mesmerised, his first thought was how on earth it was possible for people to live in such a place. Driving towards Matt’s home town of Trysil, Simon was totally overwhelmed but also dazed by the journey. After a quick dinner then off to bed.

The next few weeks were filled with all sorts of activities the first one on the list was getting used to the usual temperatures of -15C and -20C. Then also after a large dump of snow, having to get to work shovelling the snow out of the driveway to be able to get to the local school where Simon was doing a cooking class for some of the kids. Afternoon strolls with the dogs became a regular outing although by the looks of things, Simon was being taken for a walk by the dog! And new and exciting ingredients like moose were experimented with.

Some close family friends of Matt’s who are passionate about cooking came over to meet Simon, where they had long conversations with him about his life in Zambia and very kindly brought him some wonderful chefs’ knives as well as chefs’ jackets.

Simon visited the arcade for the first time where he and Matt played several games and also did a few rounds of bowling. For a first-time bowler he did amazing and managed to beat Matt, something which I am sure he will enjoy reminding Matt of when they are all back next week. Other totally alien activities included sledding and skiing – Simon was strapped into downhill skis fully geared up and off he went, at first tackling some of the gentler slopes. However Matt reckons by the end of his stay they will be going up onto some of the higher slopes.

From all of this Simon is surely going to be dinning out on the experience for some time to come. Staggered at first by how people could live somewhere so cold, he soon grew used to it and has really enjoyed the fresh crisp air. The other absolute novelty was the hot tub and sitting outside in warm water whilst the exterior temperatures are well below freezing! Whilst he is missing his family, he is having the most extraordinary time and enjoying the cooking and activities but so far, his favourite has been the skiing.

I just hope that he comes back as it certainly sounds like he is having a phenomenal time and I fear that when he does come back it is going to be quite a change getting used to the warm weather of Zambia again.

Right, that was definitely something a little bit different for you all this week and I will crack on next week with more African based stories. This one was just far too good to pass up on as it is an extremely generous thing for Matt and his family to have been able to offer Simon and quite a contrast to ‘off to Africa for the first time’. So, without any further rambling from me, I shall wish you all a very fond farewell, have a wonderful week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.



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It’s Monday 11th February and we finally put a face to the call…

I do hope that you are all well, sitting comfortably and ready and raring for the week ahead. In the Luangwa it’s been a little bit soggy and the water is at its highest point so far, this season, which is absolutely magical. It’s also however a slight cause of concern and Daudi was sent out with a ruler to measure the distance between the water and the bank. The markers are in now, so we are fully in the know with every step up or down that the water levels make.

Enough about the Luangwa River, this week we are heading over to Kuthengo where we are hearing from Jason and Steegan.

“Hello everyone, welcome back to the lush Kuthengo Camp where the birds are always chirping and the staff are always smiling!

We hope that you have had a wonderful start to the New Year and have already begun your plans to visit Malawi once again.

The atmosphere around camp is beginning to look and feel really romantic with Valentines Day around the corner. Sunsets have been spectacular to witness with a full sky of golden reds and yellows. So, you can imagine the sundowner drinks after a game drive are a highlight for many around this time of year!

Most evenings while our guests are sitting around the fire enjoying a drink and chatting about their days’ safari will be interrupted by a whooping noise. Many seasoned guests will know straight away that it is a hyena, while others have never heard that sound at all.

The call that has been studied the most in the field is the “whoop”: a very loud and musical call that often starts with a very low tone which is then modulated up and down in pitch. The whoop is a distance communication call that the hyenas use to announce their presence when they are out of visual contact. Did you know that each Hyena has a destinct whoop that other hyenas can identify?

We would often wake up the next morning and find hyena spoor around camp, although a little unnerving, it is still pretty awesome to know that we have them close to camp…

One late afternoon while out on a drive, Jason witnessed something that no other guest here at Kuthengo has ever witnessed. He saw a lone male Hyena taking a nap on the side of the road!

This must be the face to the call that we have been hearing so often. We have decided to call him Hazen and hope that he sticks around so that future guests can get a glimpse of this amazing creature!

Among other news, along with our new swimming pool, we have finally got our new wooden boat … there are still a few alterations that need to be done but the good news is that it is here and finally sailing the Shire River at Kuthengo Camp!

It can comfortably seat 8 people with their own “window” seat as well as a large spot for lounging in the front. She has officially been named Elise after Ton & Margaux’s youngest daughter.

As a new season approaches, we are looking forward to welcoming all the guests coming to us in Liwonde National Park. It is goodbye for now, but see you soon!

Jason and Steegan Smith – Managers at Kuthengo Camp.

Thanks so very much Jason and Steegan everything sounds like it is going wonderfully over at Kuthengo. After such lovely news my job is done, and I don’t need to say anything further except to wish you a wonderful week with plenty of smiles and laughter; and don’t forget to look after each other.




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Nsefu turns 20!


Nsefu Camp, Zambia’s oldest camp – originally built in 1951 – turns 20 this year under the Robin Pope Safaris’ banner. Set on a stunning wide bend of the Luangwa River in the game rich Nsefu Sector, Nsefu enjoys a truly remote setting which it shares with sister camp Tena Tena.

Looking back in time – where it all begun and how far we have come:


1950 First Nsefu Camp, a temporary camp, opened north of the present site by the northern Rhodesian Game Department. The camp had been used for department officials when on duty. Turning the camp into a tourist camp came as the initiative of chief Nsefu and in turn all the profits from the camp went to him. The department assisted with the development of the scheme giving advise, providing construction and maintenance of access and gameviewing roads, the training of Native Authority Game Guards, camp reservations and with publicity.

1951 Nsefu Camp – moved to the present site as a temporary camp.

1954 Nsefu Camp – upgraded to a 12 bedded permanent camp.

1965 Nsefu Camp – taken over by the new independent government, under the Zambian National Tourist Board.

1966 Nsefu Reserve declared a Game Reserve, thus legalizing its status.

1971 The National Parks and Wildlife Act of 1968 comes into effect thus forming the South Luangwa National Park. This included the Nsefu Sector. Nsefu Camp continued to be run by various government departments.

1979 Two chalets burnt down, and the camp was closed. Zambia Safaris the largest hunting company in Southern Africa at the time took over the camp.

1981 Robin Pope, on a profit-sharing basis reopened the camp for Zambia Safaris. Robin ran the camp for five years during which he developed his reputation. In 1982 he opened Tena Tena as a ‘fly camp’ for three-day walking safaris from Nsefu.

1984 At the end of the ’84 season, Zambia Safaris folded, and the company was taken over by Eco Safaris.

1985 Robin left Nsefu Camp and opened Tena Tena as a 12 bedded camp under his own company – Robin Pope Safaris. Between 1985 and 1997 Nsefu Camp was run by Wilderness Trails. After declining occupancy levels, the camp did not open for the 1997 season.

1998 Robin Pope Safaris takes over the Nsefu Camp lease and starts renovations.

1999 July – Nsefu Camp opens as a Robin Pope Safaris camp.

2004 Luangwa Bush Camp, then called Nsefu Fly Camp, started operating between Nsefu Camp and Tena Tena.

2009 River Journeys: launched to now operate Nsefu for a few weeks between Jan and Mar.

Nsefu Camp is a historical property and in fact a listed property. Due to this there can be very little structural changes that can be made to the camp but innovation over the years has helped make it remain ‘current’:

* Wide windows and doors.
* Shady verandas on each chalet.
* Soft furnishings.
* Most recently ‘Evening Breeze cooling system’ – excellent eco-friendly air-conditioning/cooling system for the bed.

Highlights of the camp:
Location – true remote wilderness of Nsefu Sector, only shared with sister camp Tena Tena.

The Hide – perfectly positioned by a game rich lagoon, offering an option to stay in camp instead of going out on an activity. Perhaps even enjoy the sightings here instead of an afternoon snooze…

Lounge area – views over the Luangwa and a game rich lagoon which often offers excellent sightings for our guests. We have almost daily views of elephants crossing the river once the river levels drop.
Stork colony – this is an annual phenomenon with the peak breeding season for the yellow billed storks. Hundreds of these birds congregate on a small cluster of huge ebony trees where they breed and raise their young.  There are so many birds that the trees turn white from the excrement. Crocodiles and marabu storks are usually seen waiting patiently under the trees for the inevitable nestling casualties. The storks usually start to congregate in Feb/March and the last fledglings leave the colony in late April early May.

River Journeys – Nsefu opens for a few weeks Jan-Mar to explore the Luangwa during the Emerald Season while the Luangwa River is flowing high. Walking remains on during this period, coupled with boating safaris; which makes for incredible contrast to dry season experiences.

To celebrate the big 2-0, we have put together a special package in honour of Nsefu as well as Luangwa Bush Camping which turns 15 years: Nsefu@20.

Contact us today for more information.

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Good news for the painted wolves of the Luangwa Valley!

Recent wild dog conservation success in the Luangwa Valley has it estimated to now have the largest population of wild dogs in the whole of Zambia. Despite being one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores, wild dogs (also known as the painted wolf) in and around the South Luangwa National Park have enjoyed several years of increasing numbers, and there are now estimated to be approximately 350 adults and yearlings living in the Luangwa Valley.













This is largely due to the collaborative efforts of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), the Zambian Carnivore Programme (ZCP), and Conservation South Luangwa (CSL). Successfully increasing the wild dog population in the Luangwa has required joint conservation endeavours to reduce the impacts of snaring, which has had devastating impacts on wild dogs in the past.

As a result of intense monitoring of approximately 150 to 180 dogs by ground-based field crews, aerial tracking and satellite-GPS collar technology, teams from DNPW, ZCP and CSL have been able to detect and treat snared dogs. The data provided by collared dogs is also used in anti-poaching patrols, which target snare removals in high snaring risk areas for dogs.








While this population increase is encouraging news, the wild dogs still face an uncertain future, particularly outside the areas in the Luangwa where they are not intensively protected. “Conservation successes are hard to achieve, and we cannot relax, as they can quickly be undone if we are not vigilant,” said ZCP Ecologist Thandiwe Mweetwa. “Nevertheless, we should celebrate this conservation success for Zambia and the region’s wild dogs.”

Watch the painted wolves in action here: Pick a bone with a wild dog!

With multiple safari camps in the South Luangwa National Park, Robin Pope Safaris actively supports the wonderful conservation efforts of the ZCP through a mandatory Conservation Fee levied on every bed night through their South Luangwa camps and also by hosting the ZCP team at a base camp at Nkwali Camp.

The Robin Pope Safaris guides also play a part in assisting the ZCP teams not only providing the ZCP information when an injured animal is spotted but also help with the man-power when needed.

During Robin Pope Safaris’ Carnivore Week in November, guests are given the opportunity to learn about and view carnivores as well as gain some exclusive insights into the ZCP under the guidance of project manager, Dr Matt Becker and his team. During this week activities will include tracking, learning about ecological survey techniques in the field including lion identification and prey surveys and attending lectures.













Be part of something! We have some limited availability on this years Carnivore Week safari. Contact us today for more information!

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It’s Monday 14th January and New Years greetings from Pumulani!

I do hope that you are all well and have had a fabulous weekend and sitting comfortably for this week’s news from us. Roz and the Pumulani team share a roundup of their year as they get ready for their annual shutdown.

‘Greetings all from the shores of Lake Malawi! The management, guests and staff have said farewell to 2018 in true Pumulani style and welcomed in 2019. The last month of 2018 has brought the down pours of rain turning our beautiful land around the lake into a carpet of luminous green. The staff who farm have turned their land and planted, with promise of bumper crops this year. Travelling to the lake you will see rows and rows of maize and cassava (nutty flavoured root vegetable) growing and being carefully tendered to. Cheers to a wonderful year of growth!

Christmas at Pumulani was traditionally festive, the celebrations were held on Christmas Eve (fortunately as we had a very wet Christmas day!), with guests enjoying the delights of the Chef’s food. The local choir joined us in entertaining the guests with Christmas Carols in Chichewa. After an absolutely delicious meal, we ended the evening chatting around the fire under a star sparkled sky; with our awesome guests indulging in stories about life on the lake and further afield.

Father Christmas (aka Godfrey) handed out gifts from under our locally made, roof high Baobab Christmas Tree. Our youngest guest Isabella, sparkled in her Christmas dress and was in awe that “Father Christmas” had come all the way to Pumulani!

We welcomed in 2019 around the fire with Garth sabering a bottle of bubbly at midnight for our guests, with cheers and well wishes all around; celebrating the Emerald Season in Malawi and a prosperous New Year for all!

It has been a busy six months since our last newsletter and our guests have been enjoying the numerous activities that Pumulani has to offer. Fish Eagle feeding has become very popular, especially among the enthusiastic photographers, with amazing footage of the majestic fish eagle.

Our dam on the property which is the home to cichlids, kampango (cat fish), chambo and ncheni is full with the help of the good rains and the guests are enjoying “catch and release” sitting on the bank under the trees or fishing off the walkway. Garth and the beach staff are always available to assist first timers to land at least one of these species. The competition is stiff and much fun was had by all.

Another activity is our sunset cruise on our locally made dhow (wooden sail boat), this is the perfect way to end a day sailing into the sunset with a drink in hand. Each sunset is different and never disappoints.

It has been a great year hosting guests and we look forward to inviting our new guests to stay when we reopen in March, to Pumulani – The brightest star on the lake!
Garth, Roz and the Pumulani Team.’

Thanks so much Roz for all the news; sounds like it has been a fab year for you guys.

Here in the Luangwa, well the rustles of preparation can be heard as we start to get ready to open Luangwa River Camp and Nsefu for the River Journeys. Rob looked at me with absolute horror when I unveiled the pile of food and housekeeping supplies which needed to get onto the boat to wend their merry way up to the camps. He got a similar look from me when I realized the amount of supplies which the workshop also had to send up! So I think that we can safely assume that the river is going to be rather busy with our boats beetling up and down over the next few weeks as we get all the required staff and supplies into camp.

It is always super exciting to venture into the Nsefu Sector at this time of the year when it has been transformed into a garden of Eden; and where the roads have almost all been washed away and there is not another soul up there. Hopefully this year I will venture out on the boat along with my camera and shall get snapping. For now though, I feel certain that it is time to bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a wonderful week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.





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Solo travel in Malawi (Elle Magazine – Quebec)

Read all about Catherine’s solo adventures in Malawi:

Mon voyage en solo au Malawi


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Meet Boswell – the Zimbabwe elephant turned YouTube star (The Telegraph)

Deep in the heart of Mana Pools National Park, in the shade of a mighty winter thorn tree, an old bull elephant is flapping his ears to keep himself cool. It’s August in the Zambezi Valley and at last the seedpods, an irresistible delicacy for elephants, are ready to eat…

Read more here:

The Telegraph

25 October 2018


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10 of the Most Tranquil Outdoor Showers in the World (Architectural Digest)

Situated on the southern end of Lake Malawi, Pumulani is nestled in the verdant hills among the trees and rugged outcrops. Dutch architect G. Hooft Graafland made sure the villas and showers were built in harmony with the natural landscape. The outdoor shower is placed inside a static wooden boat for an ethereal aquatic experience…

Read more about it here:

Architectural Digest

16 November 2018

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It’s Monday 7th January and some HUGE wild dog news!

How are you and how has the first week of 2019 treated you? I hope it has been full of promise of the year ahead. Before I go into overly enthusiastic raptures over the New Year, let me pull myself back to the task in hand and update you all on news from the valley.

Let’s start the year off with some really exciting news which has been given to us by Dr. Matt Becker and his team at the Zambia Carnivore Programme – The South Luangwa National Park is now officially home to Zambia’s largest African wild dog population

In an exciting win for conservation, the Luangwa Valley is now estimated to have the largest population of wild dogs in the whole of Zambia. Despite being one of Africa’s most endangered carnivores, wild dogs in and around the South Luangwa National Park have enjoyed several years of increasing numbers, and there are now estimated to be approximately 350 adults and yearlings living in the Luangwa Valley.

This wildlife conservation success is in large part due to the collaborative efforts of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), the Zambian Carnivore Programme (ZCP), and Conservation South Luangwa (CSL). Successfully increasing the wild dog population in the Luangwa has required collaborative conservation efforts to reduce the impacts of snaring, which has had devastating impacts on wild dogs in the past. As a result of intense monitoring of approximately 150-180 dogs, teams from DNPW, ZCP and CSL have been able to detect and treat snared dogs, ensuring the survival of many wild dog packs within the Luangwa Valley.

While this population increase is encouraging news, the wild dogs still face an uncertain future, particularly outside the areas in the Luangwa where they are not intensively protected. “Conservation successes are hard to achieve and we cannot relax, as they can quickly be undone if we are not vigilant,” said ZCP Ecologist Thandiwe Mweetwa. “Nevertheless we should celebrate this conservation success for Zambia and the region’s wild dogs.”

A huge thanks to all the people involved in this project it has proved a real success and we are so excited with the news that the Luangwa wild dog population is thriving thank you so much Matt for sharing this information with us.

So naturally after this news I should tell you about all the wild dog sightings that we have been having! Our guests at Nkwali have been treated with glimpses of them bounding out of thick bushes chasing some poor terrified looking antelope, to seeing them sprawled across the road enjoying the feeling of the cool ground against their tummies as well as witnessing the last remains of a kill being ravenously shared between the pack. It really has been a busy start to the year on the dog front.

It is not only the dogs that have proved successful so far this year a glimpse of a lioness with brand new cubs, eyes still shut was enjoyed by the guests and let us be honest about it really this is an undeniably amazing sighting as we rarely get to see lions out and about when they are this small. So all in all it’s been a great start to the year and let us hope that it continues in the same way.

For now though I am going to disappear off and leave you all to the rest of your week and wish you all a fabulous one with lots of smiles and laughter…don’t forget to look after each other!

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It’s Monday 31st December and high waters and even higher spirits.

How are you? I hope you had the most wonderful Christmas with friends and family and that you are all preparing to say a fond farewell to 2018 and an excited hello to 2019! Christmas in the Valley is always full of excitement and a certain amount of flexibility. We have had some incredible rain over the last few weeks so game drives have been leaving and coming back at all sorts of times of the days but despite that the guests have been seeing some wonderful game – which we will come back to.

Over Christmas we were chock-a-block so all the trees went up, Santa was guarding the Nkwali lagoon and the baboons circled the Nkwali bar waiting for an opportunity to attack the Christmas tree. The Nkwali tree was attacked however not by the baboons but by a rather large storm that literally swept it of its feet!

Our traditional Christmas carols was in jeopardy due to the rain and Kiki was tasked with putting together an impromptu RPS choir however the skies cleared and it was all on. For those of you who don’t know the carols is an age-old valley tradition where all the lodges get together with all their guests for some delicious snacks, plenty of bubbles and some good old Christmas carol singing.

Christmas day was all fun and games with turkeys running between ovens and the chefs looking at me sideways as I whipped out a box of parsnips – what on earth are these? They asked. Well needless to say as soon as they were cooked there were a few handed out for tasting and they were definitely approved of. The gin cured salmon starter however was only tasted by a couple of the more daring chefs as they were a little sceptical about a pink coloured fish that hadn’t been – well – boiled for several hours! However, they were even more perplexed when I took out a box of edible flowers for decoration.

Food asides the game viewing has been fantastic and the river is running so high that we have been able to get out in the boat as well. It has to be said that I don’t remember ever seeing the river this high at Christmas.

The Luangwa House guests have been seeing lots and lots of game including 4 separate sightings of leopard but there was one sighting that stuck out from the crowd. Driving along the road they found a leopard up in a tree while it was raining and was completely drenched, feet hanging down either side of the tree then suddenly perked up as some impala crossed the road and it jumped off the branch in an attempt to attack but the impalas were a little too alert so the attempt was thwarted. So slightly embarrassed it just sat still and cowered under a little shade trying to get away from the rain.

On a walk Bertie saw two bull elephants so they watched them quietly for a while then they carried on with their walk. The route that they were doing was a loop and on their way back they heard lots of splashing and crashing and the same two elephants came charging through a lagoon and the bushes closely followed by some impalas, waterbucks and pukus. Don’t panic the antelope were not scaring the elephant it was a knock-on effect of a pack of wild dogs scaring everybody into making a run for it! The guests only saw a fleeting glimpse of the dogs as they definitely had more on their mind than being photographed!

The Robin’s House guests also saw some incredible game but the stand out was a pair of mating lions which the youngest of the girls proclaimed as being “terribly romantic” however I fear may have caused a series of questions for mum and dad!

Other than that well plenty of giraffes absolutely everywhere and all the usual birds for this time of the year. There is plenty to be seen that is for sure. However, for today I am going sneak off as we have some preparations to be getting on with for this evenings celebrations and wish you all a wonderful evening and all the very best for the New Year. Have a wonderful first week of 2019 with plenty of smiles and laughter and dong forget to look after one another.


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It’s Monday 24th December and it’s almost Christmas time at Kuthengo…

Happy Christmas Eve – I hope that everyone has been well behaved and that Santa is absolutely on his way tonight! Here in the Luangwa it’s all systems go with getting the snacks cooked and the champagne chilled ready for our annual Christmas Carols. Then for tomorrow the turkeys are all lined up ready to be popped in the oven and all sorts of other treats and goodies are being planned. This week we are going to hear from Steegan over at Kuthengo as they get ready for their first official Christmas since opening in April this year.

Steegan – over to you:

“Although Christmas is stereotypically portrayed as a snowy white scene, at Kuthengo Camp our white Christmas has been swapped for a beautifully green one. After the first rains, everything has turned from dry and brown to an emerald green! So, welcome to our green Christmas…Isn’t it the most wonderful time of the year? Our build up to Christmas is going a little like this…

Arriving back from Blantyre with Christmas décor in hand, I thought I was going to be the only one excited to transform camp into a Christmas wonderland. To my surprise, I was wrong. Many of the staff members were curious to see what I had purchased and to listen to the vision I had. This included Dickson, our famous chef, who wasn’t the biggest help as he only stands about 4 foot 5 inches tall! I needed guys who were tall enough to reach the high spots around the tents, but none the less he wanted to help out.

Stanley, our assistant manager, helped place the greenery around the top of the tent in the main area as well as place the bows in their perfectly selected spots. Dickson then got into character and began to play around with the greenery we were busy with, this sparked a giggle among all that were gathered around. The Christmas spirit was here already!

It was time to choose a branch for our Tree to decorate, so we sent Dickson and Lucas, the Sous chef, out on the hunt for this perfectly shaped branch to call our bush Christmas tree. While the two of them were out on the hunt, I had recruited a few more curious guys standing around to assemble and put the “Merry Christmas” sign up in the dining room. Amon, our head waiter, is dubbed “the only giraffe in Liwonde” as he stands over 6 foot tall. He came in handy when we had to decorate the top of the tree and place the fairy lights around the tents.

The atmosphere in camp has become even more cheerful since we put the decorations and even sparked a creative idea from Dickson to make a ginger bread house to go along with the festive decorations.

This task has proven to be a difficult one as it’s rather wet and humid around camp, but we still think we have done a brilliant job! As it’s our first Christmas we hope that this is one of many traditions for the years to come. Dickson has even written down the recipe for the ginger bread house for everyone to use and start your own Christmas tradition!

Gingerbread house recipe by chef Dickson

We are also so grateful for our new addition to Kuthengo… the swimming pool!

Many guests have said that the pool is an absolute life saver with the heat that comes with the rain…and with quite a view I may add. This 6x4m pool is approximately 1.6m deep with the same spectacular view as the tents, the beautiful lush open flood plain where many hippo, waterbuck, kudu, impala, warthog, elephant and even sable graze and come to drink at the waters’ edge. The deck is still a work in progress but it is crystal clear and open to all who fancy a dip.

A last little bit of excitement to share, although the rains have come early this year, it never stopped Ole and Jean Peterson going out on a full day drive. Jean is a Malawian born Lady who met and married a Danish man in the 70’s. They make an effort to come to Malawi from Denmark once every two years and said they are happy to have found a place like Kuthengo to visit.

Opting for a full day drive with a slight chance of rain was one of the best decisions the Petersons made. They were keen to see anything that they could although they knew that they might not see much…

After a beautifully set lunch in the bush and drinks they started to make their way back to the camp. Driving along the road they spotted in the distance… what they thought maybe a lion, but to their surprise, it was a cheetah! They then discovered that not only one cheetah but three of them were laying under the shade of a rather large tree. This was incredible spotting from their guide Patrick.

This has been the first time that guests have seen the cheetah this far north! Usually they are found close to Chinguni Hill, which is 2 hours south of camp. We hope the cheetah family will decide to settle here! I mean who wouldn’t want to?

Ole and Jean spent a good few minutes watching them as they lay lethargically under the shade, when suddenly one of the three popped up and started walking away from the group. They followed it as far as they could to see if they could possibly witness a kill, but unfortunately it went further into the thicket.

This was definitely a perfect way to end the day and now it seems the possibility of seeing cheetah closer to camp is greater than before!

Among other news, The Klossners from Germany also witnessed a rarity at Kuthengo Camp… not only did they see the two male lions that were recently released from Majete but also one of the females with the males that was released at a different time. We are eagerly waiting to see if cubs will be a product of this exciting union.

On that high note, we wish you a Merry little Christmas from Jason, Steegan and all the staff here at Kuthengo Camp!”

Thanks so much Steegan and hope that you all have a wonderful Christmas and obviously to everyone reading this, Happy Christmas and may your day be filled with festive cheer.

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Gingerbread House for Kuthengo’s first Christmas

It’s Kuthengo’s first Chirstmas and the atmosphere is absolutely buzzing which has sparked a creative idea from Chef Dickson to make a ginger bread house to go along with the festive decorations. This task has proven to be a difficult one as it’s rather wet and humid around camp, but we still think we have done a brilliant job!










As it’s our first Christmas we hope that this is one of many traditions for the years to come. Dickson has even written down the recipe for the ginger bread house for everyone to use and start your own Christmas tradition!


1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup light molasses or dark corn syrup
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons water
For assemblage and decoration:
Melted white chocolate or Royal Icing, recipe follows
Jelly tots, Smarties, as desired

Royal Icing:
1 pound (3-3/4 cups) powdered sugar, sifted if lumpy
1 to 2 large egg whites, or substitute 4 teaspoons packaged egg whites and 1/4 cup water
1 teaspoon almond extract, vanilla or lemon juice

Mix all of the ingredients together using an electric hand mixer, until the icing is smooth and thin enough to be pressed through a pastry bag with a writing tip. Add more lemon juice, if necessary.

1. Gingerbread House: In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter, brown sugar, molasses, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and baking soda together until the mixture is smooth. Blend in the flour and water to make a stiff dough. Chill at least 30 minutes or until firm.
2. Preheat oven to 190 degrees C or gas 4.
3. Cut out the following paper patterns for the gingerbread house template: Two rectangles, 3 by 5 inches, to make the front and back of the house. Two rectangles, 3 by 5 1/2 inches for the roof. Two pieces for the ends of the house, 3 inches wide at the base, 3 inches to the roof line, and slanted to a peak 5 1/2 inches from the bottom. Four smaller rectangles, 1 1/2 by 1 inch for the roof and sides of the entryway. And one piece, 2 inches wide at the base, 1 1/2 inches to the roof line, and slanted to a peak 2 1/2 inches from the bottom for the front of the entryway.
4. Roll gingerbread dough out to edges on a large, rimless cookie sheet. Place paper patterns onto the rolled out dough. With a sharp, straight edged knife, cut around each of the pieces, but leave pieces in place.
5. Bake at 190 C for about 15 minutes until dough feels firm.
6. Place patterns on top of the gingerbread again and trim shapes, cutting edges with a straight-edged sharp knife. Leave to cool on baking sheet.
7. Place royal icing into pastry bag with a writing tip and press out to decorate individual parts of house, piping on decorations, windows, door, etc., as desired. Let dry until hardened.
8. ‘Glue’ sides, front and back of house together at corners using royal icing. Place an object against the pieces to prop up until icing is dry (it only takes a few minutes).
9. ‘Glue’ the two roof pieces to the pitched roofline of the house. Then, similarly, glue the sides and roof of the entryway together with icing. Attach the entryway to the front of the house.
10. Continue decorating the house, gluing on Jelly tots and smarties, as desired.













Happy holidays from chef Dickson and the rest of the Kuthengo Team!


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It’s Monday 17th December and the green light

I do hope that you are well. Gosh – I don’t know how many years I have been writing It’s Monday but i assure you that it’s been quite a few and believe it or not today I totally forgot as we are all systems go and I am personally in major panic mode with Christmas preparations. But despite all of that I do hope that you have had a wonderful weekend.

So what news from the Luangwa? Nkwali has been empty for the last week which has been perfect as we are full on with Christmas preparations and this has meant that after a long and busy dry season we have managed to empty all the rooms, give everything a re-paint and a major spring clean so we are completely ready for our influx of guests over the next few days. While I have been busy with the guest rooms, Kiki has been busy getting the new river crossings sorted as the river is slowly creeping up and we have had to move harbour location. The only hiccup was that a month ago the lions killed a hippo in our green season harbour so we have had to slightly move it as we really didn’t feel that a hippo skeleton was an easy obstacle for our guests whilst carrying cameras, binoculars and all sorts of other paraphernalia! That situation has now been resolved and it is now all systems go on getting the guest rooms up and running.

The rains have also arrived, as we had a couple of huge rainstorms and the bush has literally burst into life with everything transforming itself into the most vibrant green you can imagine. After months of dry dusty beige, we are dazzled by the colour and with the rain all of the small dust particles get washed out of the sky and the light becomes simply incredible. The golden sun bathes the bush in this magical light – I realize it sounds like I am going slightly crazy, but I promise you it is incredibly beautiful. It’s the perfect Christmas green so mother-nature has done a large part of our Christmas decorating for us. Anyways before I get carried away with my ramblings let’s move on to guests shall we!

Robin’s House has been busy with guests and they have had some wonderful sightings however most of the predators seem to be sleeping. On the list of wildlife spotted sleeping was:

• A pack of 20 wild dogs with incredibly full tummies so obviously digesting a massive breakfast.
• A male and female lion just taking it easy in the shade.
• A leopard pretty much doing the same as the lion.

We have also had a few sightings of a lovely female leopard just behind Nkwali who has been busy stalking pukus’ so the poor creatures are living on high alert at the moment.

Let us also not forget about the smaller things that pop up this time of the year. In order to help us with our Christmas decorations we have the bright red velvet mites roaming the planes (ok allow me a little poetic licence – basically these small mites are dotted all around, if you take the time to stop and look on the ground!). Then we also have the fireball lilies which suddenly burst into flower from one day to the next.

The foam nest frogs are busy making their foam nests hoping and praying that the puddle they make their nest over doesn’t suddenly dry up! Everywhere you look there are dung beetles in all different shapes and sizes busy making the most of things and frantically rolling their dung balls. It’s a magical time of the year where everything just seems to relax a little after the long harsh dry season and all sorts of wonderful plants and creatures pop out of the woodwork and make their annual appearance.

So there we have it for this week I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and wish you all a wonderful week ahead with lots of Christmas cheer and spirit! We will chat to you again next week on Christmas Eve, with more updates from the camps.





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It’s Monday 10th December and the giraffe.

I do hope that you have had a fabulous weekend with plenty of joviality. So what news from the Luangwa? Well, to be honest with you today’s It’s Monday is going to take a slightly different stance, as we are having a giraffe update. What picture comes into your mind when you think of Africa? I am sure the obvious image of a large maned male lion but I am also sure that up there at the top is that iconic image of a lone giraffe feeding on a lone acacia in the middle of a vast open plane… It really is one of those classic African images.

A tower of giraffes, a journey of giraffes, so many subspecies with subtle differences. An array of wonderful local names – here in Zambia the local name is Nyama likiti the literal translation being the animal that makes the ground tremble. And across the border in Malawi “Kadyamsonga” meaning a feeder on tree-tops. Then there is the Latin name “Camelopardalis” which suggests that it is a cross between a camel and a leopard.

We need to protect this iconic species and African Parks have been doing just that down in Majete. We are now able to share some news of our exciting new arrivals in Majete Wildlife Reserve. Last month 13 giraffes were successfully introduced into the reserve for the first time. They came all the way from South Africa, spending over three days in the back of a truck and covering 2,500km.

African Parks have worked tirelessly on setting this project up and helping to protect this incredible animal. They also passed on some rather alarming information about giraffes and the survival of the species.

Giraffes are one of the iconic animals of Africa and yet they have been placed on the ‘Red List’ of threatened species and even more worryingly is that several subspecies of giraffes are now critically endangered. The numbers are down by some 30% since the 1980’s with fewer than 100,000 remaining across the continent. Having fallen to the devastating effect of poaching and hunting for their skin and their meat; as well as in some areas simply being killed just for their tails as part of a traditional brides’ dowry.

These 13 giraffes are now however happily making Majete their new home and are living there peacefully, along with a host of other animals. We sincerely hope that they thrive in their new home.

The translocation effort was undertaken with Giraffe Conservation Foundation and Malawi Department of National Parks and Wildlife, with additional support provided by the Sundaram Family. These wonderful animals have already been making an appearance, much to the delight of guests staying at Mkulumadzi!

All giraffes both in Majete and here in the South Luangwa must certainly be enjoying the wonderful flush of new green leaves that are popping out left right and centre with the rains that we have been getting. They do however look slightly entertaining as they become even taller from the thick soil sticking to their hooves as they wander around with their muddy socks on!

So without taking away the spotlight from the giraffe I am going to prevent myself from peeling off and nattering away about all sorts of other things. I hope that you all have a fabulous week, with lots of smiles and laughter; and don’t forget to look after each other.

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It’s Monday 3rd December and a leap into December.

I do hope that you are all well and have had a fabulous weekend and welcomed December with the gusto and excitement that it deserves. The last month of the year! Where has the time gone? The season has also flown by and Nkwali, Robin’s House & Luangwa Safari House remain open, as Tena Tena, Nsefu and Luangwa River Camp are all closed as the rains have arrived. The skies are heavy with clouds and dry bush has transformed itself into a surreal parkland with new sprigs of grass sprouting up all over the place. The elephants have decided that Nkwali is not the only place to hang out, which means it is now significantly easier for us to get around. Humphrey the hippo is having a wonderful time in his lagoon which has significantly more water in it.

On a festive note, this week we are going to get cracking with some early preparations for Christmas. The amarula ice cream will find its self being churned and we will start with some experimenting for the Christmas menu so that we are fully prepared. The crackers are already in and the turkeys have been on order for the last month – there was no way we were going to leave that to chance. And this year will be the first time that we will decorate our house as with Jack I feel it important to celebrate. However, I am not entirely sure how a Christmas tree will survive with him and the cats but let’s wait and see what happens there!

Anyway, let’s move on to the serious business of game viewing… So, what has been happening out in the park? Well the animals are looking decidedly spritelier with the start of the rains. The baby impalas have popped out everywhere – although I must admit I do feel that this year there appear to be fewer. However, they are always an absolute joy to watch. The guests witnessed a puku being born – never ceases to amaze how these fragile little creatures can be born and up and running within a matter of minutes! And the migratory birds have started coming in with sightings of Abdim Storks and White Storks. On Saturday John was out on a drive and they heard an Africa Pitta (formerly known as Angola Pitta) – it’s always the biggest challenge this time of the year for our keen birders to try and spot one of these elusive birds. I am afraid to say that the challenge continues as despite a lot of neck craning and eye straining it remained heard but not seen.

Whilst talking of being elusive this week the leopards have been somewhat absent from the show. However, 2 female lions were spotted having just taken down an elephant calf and were feasting on their reward. Whilst on the subject of animals and prey, also out in the park was a rare and unusual sighting of a spotted bush snake – I want to say pouncing to make it sound more dramatic but obviously there is no pouncing when it comes to snakes, so let’s use our imaginations! Like I was saying, a spotted bush snake was seen grabbing a skink with astonishing speed and taking the poor beast off clasped in its jaws to enjoy its meal in a slightly more secluded spot. Whilst on the subject of bush snakes we had one that really was in a bit of a pickle the other day – it had caught a frog and had the frog in its mouth but was under a door and, well, wanted to go back inside but really couldn’t know there was the added bulk in its mouth. After what felt like an age of indecisiveness it finally decided to leave the comforts of the office and take refuge in a tree.


I assure you, it will not be long until I start obsessing over the levels of the Luangwa River. However, for now it remains rather empty and we are still enjoying daily sightings of elephants crossing in front of camp, which is always a splendid treat. The kudus and giraffes are also regularly coming down to drink and we also had lions camped out there for the best part of a week. Never a dull moment.

For now, however, I am going to leave you all to it. As I write this, I hear the dulcet tones of the Heuglins Robin (sorry – white browed robin chat – for those more up to date with the bird names) reminding me that it is time get the day going. So, I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you all have a splendid week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter, and don’t forget to look after one another

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It’s Monday 26th November and the annual predator photographic trip.

I hope you are sitting comfortably and prepared to be wowed by loads of incredible stories and even more amazing photographs from David Rogers and
a group of four photographers who braved the November heat for David’s annual Predator Photo Workshop. The words and pictures from this trip leave little doubt about just how wonderful it was.

In the words of David’s guests:

Maria-Jose Carballo : “Early November is one of my favourite times in South Luangwa.” Weakened herbivores trying to find the last bits of dried grass, buffalo calves getting stuck in the mud and feasting predators all over the place. As the heat builds, the first scattered showers start changing the landscape and the wobbly newborn impala announce the arrival of the new season. Wildlife at its best!”

Wendy Vickery from Swaziland has been to Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa and says she keeps telling family and friends that this was her best trip ever. “I love the bush, and that Mopani forest made my heart feel like bursting.” Wendy really liked the fact that our group was so small and everyone got to know each other very quickly.

Liz Stagg listed highlights which were too plentiful to include all of them, but here are some of her top moments:

“Seeing the confused look on the face of a lioness who had killed two warthog piglets, ‘which one to eat first?’ Hearing the deafening squeals of a fully-grown male warthog, taken down by a pack of lions which included ‘Stumpy’ – a young male with only half a tail. Wendy spotting a leopard asleep in the only tree for miles around on the salt pan. That tree is now referred to as ‘Wendy’s tree’. Seeing the Painted dogs start to chase the impala, the impala fleeing for their lives across the meadow, the giraffes joining in and our vehicle in hot pursuit. Over the noise of the chase David shouted out ‘Liz, get your GoPro running’. The pregnant impala didn’t stand a chance. We watched as the adult dogs let the pups feed and fill their tummies. Watching in silent wonder as a new-born Puku tried to stand. She was tiny and still wet from birth; her Mum warily kept her eyes on us. Bob entertaining us with tales, recounted in the accents of Barbados, with great accuracy.”

Bob Sankey, on his second trip to Luangwa in 12 months, was blown away by the people and the landscapes. An ex Royal Marine and previously a guide in Zimbabwe, he has a large personality and a singing voice to match. None of us will ever forget driving back from Chichele Hills special sundowner with two bottles of bubbly under our belts and Bob singing Mathilda at the top of his voice.

We will let the photographs do the rest of the talking.

Wow thanks so much everyone it was obviously wonderful to have you all with us and we are delighted that we got to spoil you with some incredible sightings and photographic opportunities. Anyone who is interested, David holds photographic workshops with us quite regularly although the spaces are booking up fast – options available for November 2019 and February 2020.

On that note I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a wonderful week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.



Robin Pope Safaris digital photographic workshop in South Luangwa National Park with David Rogers *** Local Caption *** © David Rogers



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It’s Monday 19th November and a safari through all the camps.

I do hope that you are fabulously well and sitting down when I tell you this… yet another season has zoomed past!!Tena Tena is now closed and we only have a couple of weeks before the same happens to Nsefu and Luangwa River Camp. I have to say I really honestly have no idea where time has gone since May! Instead of banging on about the fact that time is whistling past, far too quickly at that, we have had some lovely images from David Elbourn. David recently stayed at Nkwali, Tena and Nsefu; and as you will see had some wonderful sightings both in and out of camp.

This year, more than any other year, we have been surrounded by elephants at Nkwali and the fences have borne the brunt of them trying to get from A-B. The team having re-done the fences several times, decided to decorate one of the fences with the addition of an arch. As I am sure you can imagine, it is more work than initially thought as it needs to be popped back on almost every day as the elephants don’t quite fit underneath it and so just knock it off!

Humphrey the hippo has been regularly joined by the same elephants, and to be honest with you, makes very little attempt to socialise.

Aside from exceptional sightings of all predators and plenty of birds, the Nkwali team rustled up a magnificent bush breakfast; and I have to say just looking at what Winnie was cooking up makes me feel hungry!

Through all the camps David was treated to plenty of lion and leopard sightings as well as wild dogs and even the elusive Eland whilst up at Tena Tena.

The birdlife this time of the year is always good, having a lot of our migratory birds around and because there is so little coverage in the trees and bushes. So, we get to have great sightings of everything not only up in the trees but also the larger birds down on the ground wrestling with how best to consume the fish that they have caught!

David, thanks so much for sharing your fab photos with us I am somewhat envious of all that you saw while you were here. I realise that this sounds ridiculous as I live here but we don’t actually go out on safari when we go to the camps – it’s always a quick trip there and back and if we see something it’s a major bonus. So I live vicariously through the sightings of others.

Moving on now to one of my favourite topics – the weather… this time of the year we have the build up to the rains and without exception we get a few tell-tale signs. First one – baby warthogs and this year we seem to be seeing plenty. We have a pair of little ones seen almost daily running around Nkwali with mum and I presume aunty.

Second sign – baby impala, the guides have spotted the odd one or two which means that soon the plains are going to be littered with these wonderfully leggy and wobbly little creatures. Third – the frogs start to sing, which is a sure sign that hopefully soon the earth is going to be blessed with some much-needed moisture. Then lastly let’s not forget our old favourite, the red-chested cuckoo who sings a rather distinctive tune which I can assure you by February has become a little irritating. However when I heard the first one just a few days ago I did smile at what it means. Right, I think that I have probably over-shot with my stories this week so will hopefully leave you not too fed up with my babbling.

I hope that you all have a spectacular week ahead with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.

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It’s Monday 12 November and a safari through all the camps

I hope that everyone has had a fabulous weekend and is prepared for another action filled week ahead. Here in the Luangwa it seems to be non-stop incredible sightings with all sorts of lion kills as well as lions crossing the river in front of camp after spending the night roaring loudly, making sure everyone knew that they were there, on the way to a macabre style buffet. Plus, lions sitting waiting for buffalos that were stuck in the mud to die whilst the vultures all sat in the trees watching and patiently waiting. However, this week we are not talking about the Luangwa we are heading down the Shire River to spend some time at Kuthengo So, I shall pass you on to Jason & Steegan, the managers down at Kuthengo.













“On the last day of what was a fantastic safari in the Liwonde National Park guests were treated to yet another spectacular sighting right in camp! Just goes to show it’s an everyday safari at Kuthengo!

We were heading towards the dining area for brunch on the last morning of the safari with an amazing family, when we stopped in our tracks as someone spotted a harmless spotted bush snake on the floor in the dining area. Not just a bush snake but a bush snake tangled up in a battle of wills against a grey foam nest tree frog!!!

This sent everyone rushing for cameras and phones to capture this rarely seen moment, a spectacle of nature only a few are privileged enough to witness. We were lucky enough to watch the snake swallow the frog by stretching its jaw and body around its prey; a feat that still remains hard to believe. This encounter lasted 20 minutes with everyone in rapture at this amazing spectacle, even the younger members of the group couldn’t bear to take their eyes away for a moment, fearing they would miss something!

What our guide Michael, who was on the scene at the time, believes transpired is that the bush snake on the hunt for just such quarry, had caught the frog. Perhaps due to the frog’s struggle for life with its powerful hind legs, it forced the snake to drop to the floor with the frog in its mouth. Having managed to hold on, it then proceeded to swallow its prey. After the snake had finished swallowing its prey, we then gave it space to make its way back into the bush to find somewhere to lie up and digest

This is what a safari in Liwonde NP is all about, the unexpected, nature and wilderness at its most raw and untouched. Something that is nothing short of a privilege to experience!”

Wow! Seems Michael has been having some interesting encounters, here is more:

“On another beautiful afternoon sitting at Kuthengo in Liwonde National Park having tea, watching over 200 elephants on the western bank, we decided that a walk was the best plan of action for the following morning. My two guests on their honeymoon also agreed.

I proceeded to give them a run-down of what I hoped to achieve for the morning and mentioned things don’t always go according to plan in the bush, as mother nature tends to have her own idea of events. However, it turned out mother nature and I were in complete harmony! After reaching the western bank and running through my safety briefing, I explained we were going to look for bull elephant tracks and see if we could find one to walk up onto and hopefully watch him for a while. We did just that, after an hour of tracking we found ourselves sitting under a bush watching a magnificent bull elephant feeding. Wind in our faces sun at our backs and the bull had no idea we were there, perfect! After about 20 minutes ten more bulls joined the fray, this just increased our already ravenous appetite to stay and observe these charismatic and delightful animals. The first bull who was feeding a little apart from the others then showed us something rarely witnessed by many people, he reached up stood on his hind legs and broke a huge branch off a fever tree which came down with an almighty crack. The rest of the bulls then came on with haste as they knew there was a juicy food source on offer! We sat for over an hour in silence under our little bush and watched the bulls feed and interact with each other. Nature at its finest and a privilege to witness.

When it was time to move, we moved in silence once at a respectable distance. I said we were able to now talk, not that it happened, my guests were speechless and to be honest so was I! We then found a good spot for some tea and coffee and once we had finished and felt replenished, I decided to finish off the mornings adventure with a short boat cruise. This turned out to be one of my many bright ideas (not that there are that many). We ended up finding a herd of over 200 elephants drinking and crossing a small inlet. After some careful maneuvering on the boat as not to disturb them we then sat close by as giant bulls, wise matriarchs, adolescent teenagers and playful youngsters drank, wallowed and threw mud around. At one point one of the big bulls, who’s size and stature was nothing short of awe inspiring then decided to investigate. When he got too close a few stern words helped let him know that he was close enough. After an almighty head toss with dust, mud and water flying everywhere he then turned and ambled after the rest of the group. This whole episode lasted an hour and left us again, speechless!

Click here to watch a short clip of the lovely herd of elephants taken on the boat cruise!

It’s very rare that all a plan comes together in the wilderness but on that occasion that they do it is nothing short of spectacular!”

Thanks, so much Jason, Steegan and Michael what an incredible experience.

On that note really, I am not even going to say anything except bid you all a very fond farewell and have a lovely week with plenty of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other




























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It’s Monday 5th November and a half term trip to the Luangwa for the Cousins Family.

I do hope that you are all well and sitting comfortably. For those of you who still have children at school and are looking at ways to spend half term – take a leaf out of the Cousins’ hand book! Simon and Shanie have just been back out to visit with the girls; as where else would you spend half term. The valley at this time of the year is admittedly a little on the warm side but with that comes some pretty incredible game viewing.

Straight out of school and into the car they set off for the Valley; and were here just in time for a cold beer for the adults and lots of fun and splashing about in the swimming pool for the children.

First morning waking up in the Valley is always filled with incredible excitement and there was absolutely no time to be wasted; a cup of tea and off by 5am as its always best to beat the heat. For the next few days joined by various friends they had some incredible sightings showing off the Luangwa at its best.

Littering the sharp banks of the Luangwa are colonies of Carmine Bee-Eaters who are busy nesting and, well, zipping back and forth catching food for their youngsters. It’s a great time of year as we did have a little early shower and since then we have had heaps of cicadas, moths and other bugs for them to catch and take back to their little mud caves.

Still on the birding front, they had a fabulous sighting of a Giant Eagle Owl flashing its wonderful pink eyelids. And with the lagoons drying out we have seen an increased number of pelicans coming in to reap the rewards of the crowded fish population.

Giraffes – well, there are loads around at the moment and whilst there is no rhyme nor reason or scientific proof that they have a particular mating season (in fact a lot of the females are wandering around with youngsters already and given they have an approximate gestation period of 7 months that would prove me wrong!). But the females seem to be being followed by a trail of male suitors, maybe it’s just something in the air – the anticipation of the rain perhaps. Who knows.

Whilst lions were somewhat scarce, they had some incredible sightings of leopard including a beautiful scene of a mum and cub just chilling in a tree enjoying the breeze and the last moments of day time before beginning the evenings hunting activities. Which really has to be an absolute highlight of anyone’s safari.

So, if that isn’t just quite simply the best way to spend half term, I don’t know what is. Simon, thanks so much for letting us share your photos and sightings with everyone as always hugely appreciated; and hopefully we will see you back in the Valley again soon.


Other news… we are being catapulted towards the end of the season and Tena Tena has now closed. The unfathomable speed at which the team is able to pack up the camp still astounds me. Spending a month putting the camp up it can take just 3 days to get everything washed, counted and packed up. It’s like a whirlwind and you don’t want to stand in the way, that is for sure. I think there is an innate panic instilled in the guys worrying about the rain coming and not being able to pack things up properly; but also lets face it, getting home to their families is certainly priority number 1. This year was no exception and after possibly one of our busiest seasons the team certainly deserves a well-earned break.

This leaves us with Nsefu, River Camp, the Houses and Nkwali; so don’t worry there are still plenty of guests with us and plenty of stories still to come your way. So I will graciously bow out for this week and bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a splendid week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after one another.

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It’s Monday 29 October and a treat for all the senses at Johns Camp.

I do hope that you are all extremely well and have had a lovely weekend. Here in the Luangwa well we have had a slight flurry of excitement with some early rain which certainly caught us all somewhat unaware but the skies have cleared up and the temperatures are rising once more and we have even seen our first piglets which is always such a treat. But before I delve too deeply into the goings on in the Luangwa let me stop myself and hand you over to recent guest who stayed at John’s Camp, Deb Primrose.

“Arriving back into camp after an exhilarating day spent amongst the wonders of magical Mana Pools as the last rays of a huge orange sun sets over the Zambezi Valley. Sun tinged and a little dusty, time to head for a hot shower (en suite) and change of attire. Later we gather around and sip on pre-dinner refreshments transfixed by dancing flames in the fire pit. A beautiful dining table is set, alfresco, romantically lit with flickering hurricane lamps and glinting wine glasses. We are soon to be treated to a simply delicious 3 course meal freshly prepared and cooked by the camps accomplished chefs. Happy chat and stories are told. With bellies full we are happy to retire, escorted to the comforts of our tents. Safely inside and enjoying crisp cotton sheets sleep begins to take hold as foreign sounds echo through an inky black night. A high pitched giggle of the hyena, a distant roar of a lion, the shriek of a night jar and the sharp snap of twigs breaking under the enormous pads of a mighty elephant. Wandering what may unfold tomorrow? Who will pass through camp or what shenanigans will take place while we sleep. We were told of the cheeky honey badger who over the last few nights had managed to outwit camp staff by performing skillful manoeuvres as he stole some delicious delights from within the kitchen.
A scheduled wake-up call before sun rise gets us jumping out of bed, welcomed cups of hot tea and coffee and a slice of toast set us up for our early morning adventures while watching a herd of over 100 buffalo in front of the camp!
Breakfast with buffalos

Loaded into vehicles wrapped warmly, as there is still quite a chill in the air, bino’s and cameras at the ready we head out of camp. Full of anticipation and excitement as to what this day will bring.

Rays of a warming sun appear, on the wind an odour of fresh elephant dung indicating we are close – a large herd of elephant little ones in tow, just the cutest, their little trunks dancing curiously seeking new smells tucked in close amongst the jumble of thick column like legs. All are alert but unperturbed by our presence as they continue to forage away happily. Observing these great beauties comfortable in their natural environment is one of life’s most treasured experiences. Amazed by their sheer size, how they achieve such bulk on a diet of just leaves alone. Obvious there is a deep family bond amongst the herd, the big matriarch keeps order, she is the ‘look out’, sensitively alert always. Calm and graceful but unpredictable, when ears start to flap a trunk goes up and steadfast she stands, she warns us that we are close enough.

Moving on… Lion spore almost lost in the dust are expertly spotted by our guide Dave’s trained eye. We come to a halt as the tracks veer from the road, time to follow on foot. Closely behind one another in single file our hearts pounding with anticipation and feeling a little vulnerable we follow quietly. Fascinated at the skills of our guide his ability to read and estimate a time the prints were placed, stopping every now and then to listen or learn about a specie of bird, tree or plant. Unfortunately after a few kilometres and no tell-tale signs that we are getting any closer it is decided we return to the vehicle. Onwards to a favourite pan for a rewarding cuppa and freshly baked muffin. An interesting assortment of water fowl happily chatting go about their business, a hilarious hippo opens his enormous mouth exposing an impressive set of tusk like teeth while contributing to a concert of loud grunting sounds. A troop of baboons entertain, rather human in behaviour, as a young mother reprimands her toddler with a gentle spank.

We travel a winding road through an acacia woodland, shafts of misty morning light illuminate the distinctive black and white stripes of a zebra twosome, grazing beneath, a truly magical sight. Not forgetting the hilarious bald baobab or upside down tree as it is affectionately known. Its robust gnarly trunk and crazy root like branches reach for the sky.

With a sensory over load, so many new sights, sounds and smells our hunger has reached the point of no return. A spectacular buffet brunch of tasty deliciousness catered for every palette is a welcoming sight as we pull into camp. Once again, with our appetites satisfied and the days heat reaching its climax we follow suit of the animal kingdom and head for shade and rest, in the coolness of our tents.

Afternoon tea and cake appointment at three in the mess tent is the call, before heading out once again on another sundowner adventure.

To sleep under canvas in a remote African bush location, one is treated to an experience that enlightens every sense – There is no other place like it on earth.”

Wow! Well if that doesn’t make you want to head to Johns Camp then I don’t know what will. Thanks so much to Deb, this paints the most wonderful picture of a safari even for those of us who live in the bush there are pangs of jealousy. And let’s face it I am not going to be able to compete with this story so I shall gracefully bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a wonderful week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.
Sunset in Mana Pools



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It’s Monday 22 October and David Rogers family’s maiden visit.

I do hope that you are all extremely well and have had a lovely weekend; and are gearing up to another fun and exciting week ahead. Here in the Luangwa, after years of visiting RPS and leading his photographic safaris with us, David Rogers finally came out on an actual holiday with his family. It was so fab to be able to look after them as a family and after so many years to finally meet them. So this week whilst David is going to get us started he is handing over to his wife Jenni who is going to tell us all about their safari.

“It was a dream come true to finally take my family to see my second home. While I love visiting Robin Pope Safaris camps with my photographic clients, it was wonderful seeing it through the eyes of my family. They just loved the experience, the landscape and the lodges. We visited several other lodges during our visit to Luangwa but for the boys Robin’s House was the absolute highlight. But before I hand you over to Jenni the boys did make a couple of little comments:

“Robin’s House was not like a lodge,” said Liam aged 14. “It was our home.”
“I am never going to feel sorry for you when you go on trips,” said Dane aged 13.

At last our two boys and myself joined David in South Luangwa, Zambia. David has been leading photographic groups to this wild and wondrous place four times a year, and as he leaves home each time, we longingly ask him about his ‘second home’ in the valley. His stories of the places and the people have us all curious and longing. And now we are here, hosted by Robin Pope Safaris, staying in Robin’s House, Nkwali. Met by Rob, Emily and their team, we throw open the doors of this small private bush home, to be welcomed by a wide deck hovering over a vast sweep of the river. Sausage trees throw shade over this cool and welcoming home. Hippos grunt and tussle for space in a large pod below us. There is a welcome like nothing else – wilderness and people draw you in. Our host Matt briefs us and Emmanuel serves us cold drinks and shows us to our large airy bedrooms. As our boys leap into the swimming pool a family of over fifty elephants cross the river in front of us.

With my own focus on selling private villas for families, this and Luangwa Safari House were of great interest to me, as these exclusive-use houses work so well for small groups and families. Robin’s House sleeps only 5, so it’s a perfect family home, and our boys instantly befriended the team and our guide Obi, this meant that leaving became very difficult! The mornings are a favourite – hot toast cooked over the fire in the cool dawn, before setting out to take a short boat trip across the river – navigating between hippos and the occasional croc to the far side where our vehicle waits for us. Then a drive with Obi along the flood plains in search of evidence of the night’s high dramas. A pile of porcupine quills tells of a treacherous battle. A dead hippo floating in the river fed on by some 40 crocodiles. A baby leopard stashed in the wide branches of a Tamarind Tree, with her mother watching over the remains of her kill in the branches. The game drive leads us along the river bank, into a wide-open area peppered by green Sausage trees adorned with trusses of red flowers and huge sausage shaped fruit. The heat builds and then there by the river we see a breakfast set up for us – chairs overlooking the river, and Nickson working over a fire to produce a feast! A scout watches the bull elephant who wanders over to us, then ambles off in search of the Wild Mango fruits. We marvel at all this set up for us, along with cold champagne and wet face cloths for the dust!

Back in our cool private space above the river, we siesta and I take the chance to sketch some of the bush flowers and the heat of the day bristles and vibrates. It is October and its hot. Only warthogs scuffle nearby and banded mongoose dash about.

Emerging for scones and whipped cream, we join Obi and Matt in search of a group of lions and their cubs. Finding them in the open near Luangwa Safari House, we watch the 6 cubs playing alongside three supine females all idly batting away the energetic and hungry babies. Later we drive over to Luangwa Safari House to see this amazing villa and as we are on the deck, one female chases and kills a warthog just 100 metres from where we stand! Later that evening we drive across a shallow part of the river to see a second pride of lions, only to find ourselves bogged down in thick cotton soil. The boys leap off, enjoying the adventure, watching the pride of lions on the sand bank just above us. Obi gets the boys safely in the back, pours our gin and tonic and together with some game scouts (who walk across the river to help us) – we dig ourselves free and give these men a lift back across the river in the fading light, watching the shapes of the elephants move away from the river.

Driving out early the next morning we spot two tiny cubs alone out in the open. We watch them play and climb trees, and Obi assures us the mothers will come back for them. My mother instincts cry out to save them from lurking hyenas and leopards, but we drive on in the valley and in to the heat. Nature must do as it must. I drink up the river, the massive figs, Tamarind, Wild Mango, Ebony and Leadwood trees – but the Sausage Trees stay with me, the amazing way that this tree serves to feed the animals with fruit and flower at a time when the land is dry and the grass is scarce.

Nature at its best.”

Thanks so much Jenni for the glorious words and beautiful sketch and of course David for the photographs to perfectly illustrate Jenni’s’ story. The only problem is this is really going to set a tough example of an its Monday to follow next week. So I shall not linger on as Jenni has more than successfully described the most wonderful few days of safari. Instead I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have the most wonderful week ahead full of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.

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It’s Monday 15th October and an exciting morning with some lions.

I do hope that you are well and sitting comfortably ready and raring for the week ahead. So what news from the Luangwa Valley? Well let me tell you, this week we are throwing out the usual tactics of getting stories from the camps and instead I am being terribly selfish and telling you all about a sighting that Rob and I had. Every Wednesday morning, we head to Luangwa River Camp and usually try to get going early, especially this time of the year as the temperatures are rising. So, John arrives at our house full of stories about the morning ride into work and announces that the staff run had seen a big pride of lions. Well I was not going to miss out on this opportunity so dusted off my camera; which I can assure you has not been used much at all lately. I grabbed Rob from the office, packed up the car and off we went; and sure enough there were the lions – what a treat to see so many and also actually playing around, suckling and interacting with each other.

Dr Matt Becker and the Zambian Carnivore Programme along with the DNPW team were obviously also there making notes and identifications etc. Then Matt asked if it was ok if they put a collar on one of the females. Now I realise that for quite a few of you the immediate reaction is negative, especially when trying to take photos of the animals. However, as we found out from the research team these lions were part of the group that we called Big Pride which had split off in 2016. They have been spending increasing amounts of time in the GMA (Game Management Area – the non-park side of the river) and the father of the cubs is likely to be the male lions from what they call the Mvu Coalition and not Ginger and Garlic – hence the penchant for increased time on our side of the river. This is obviously very important information as for the safety of the cubs they will likely to be wanting to spend increasing amount of time away from their original pride.

For a little more history (which is fascinating) this is the exact same way that the Chinzombo Pride formed many years ago. Given that in 2016 the resident Chichele Pride female was killed by Ginger and Garlic, this has opened the area for a new pride which these guys have now filled. The researchers decided to collar one of the females for several reasons; one of them being so that they can keep a track of this splinter group but now a new pride. Also with this monitoring of the animals comes safety, as with them being outside of the park we are obviously aware and careful with Human/Wildlife conflicts so we want to keep everyone nice and safe.

The team all convened and after careful consideration of the circumstances, they darted one of the females (obviously not mum but one of the aunts). Once she was safely sedated and the remaining pride had moved on, we could come in and observe proceedings. I have to be honest with you it was fascinating. The team measured the animal, took her temperature, took a small tissue sample for DNA purposes and then fitted the collar. Talking to Matt about how they fit the collar and determine where to put the collar and how to size it taking into the fact that this was a fully grown female but obviously strains and flexes when hunting and killing prey was so interesting and certainly put a new slant and perspective on this. We left the team to it as we didn’t want to crowd and impact the situation. Later that day the team were coming back to camp, having spent the entire day with the pride ensuring that there were no problems. In fact the pride killed and ate a warthog and behaved as if nothing had happened which is fantastic. Success all round. So hopefully we will be able to keep abreast of how the pride is doing which is important but also exciting.

As a further point of note which I found incredibly interesting and is that the lions from the work done by the researchers is Zambia’s longest running lion conservation project. They utilize collars to give locations of prides and provide Conservation South Luangwa with the information so that they can patrol in the areas that the lions are spending their time, which in turn minimizes the risk of snaring. Throughout the history of the project some 39 lions have had snares removed and to date those 39 lions have given birth to 148 cubs – this is just incredible and shows the amazing work that the teams on the ground here are doing.

Well as you probably guessed I could go on and on for hours about this, but really should leave you all to your day. Hope that you have a fab day and week ahead with all the smiles and laughter possible and also don’t forget to look after each other.

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It’s Monday 8th October and lion vs wild dog!

I do hope that you are sitting comfortably after a lovely weekend and ready for the thrills of the week ahead. Let’s get you off to a good start and get you going with a rather exciting account from Mobiles (our Mobile Walking Safaris). Incidentally before I pass you over to Michael for this week’s news, may I just give the sad news that this will be the last news from Mobiles for the year, as the season has already come to an end. It has whistled past and has been an incredible season up on the Mupamadzi River with sightings like we have never had before. Anyway, enough from me; let’s hear first-hand from Michael…

“As is the usual case with Mobile Walking Safaris, it’s always action packed. And I mean action packed.

This safari, which Kanga was leading, got off to a flying start with a pair of mating lions at the sundowner spot on the first day! The second evening saw us sipping on G&T watching a tower of 7 Giraffe as the sun dipped below the horizon. Not forgetting the countless wonderful sightings that the guests had had during the day.


Then on the third evening, things really got exciting! I have to go back a little bit to give you some perspective before the story can really begin. After getting everyone’s sundowner orders before they leave camp on their afternoon walk, myself and Shadreck pack the Tank and head out to a spot that Kanga has decided upon. On this particular evening it was ‘Georgina’s’ spot (not sure why it’s called that, maybe someone can clarify… perhaps a story for another day!), one of my favourites! While driving there Shadreck and I see the group walking to our right-hand side, as we reach the sundowner spot. The team is quite far off taking a nice big loop along the river which gives us plenty of time to unpack. Once done we take a moment to enjoy the setting which is when Shadreck says “there’s an animal on the sand-bank,”. I grab my binoculars and discover that it is a pride of 6 lions – 3 lionesses, 2 subadults and a juvenile relaxing on the sandbank. I still have the walking team in site and start waving to get their attention to come over and see the lions, however to my surprise I see they are indeed watching something else… our resident pack of 16 wild dog!

I relax in my attempts to get their attention as I can now see the dogs moving parallel to where Shadreck and I are waiting, assuming the team will follow. However, if anyone knows dogs they are notoriously difficult to follow especially when they move off at pace! Which they proceeded to do, so the team with the lions still out of site then walked to the carmine colony to get some photos of these beautiful birds in the golden light of a Luangwa sunset.

What makes the next part of the story interesting is the dogs were up wind of the lions, meaning as soon as they got to a certain point the lions would pick up their scent and ultimately begin stalking, which they did.

The dogs had now settled down around 30/40 meters from the bank of the river. The lionesses then began their stalk through the river and up onto the bank, by this point I couldn’t see the team so instead sat down and enjoyed the moment with Shadreck . As the two lionesses stalked up the bank, the pack of dogs seemed very relaxed, this had the potential to end badly for one of the dogs! And while I am all for nature taking its course, my heart was in my throat, the anticipation was just killing me! Finally, after about 5 minutes 1 lioness began her charge, full bore at the pack which immediately scattered and began barking and alarming in protest! This certainly got the group’s attention and as I looked left I noticed them moving with all urgency to investigate the disturbance. They got themselves into position and managed to watch the drama unfold as the dogs continued to bark and dart in and out at the two lionesses, with the lionesses making a charge every now and then! This tentative confrontation went on for around 20/30 minutes until the two female lions gave up and went back across the river to their offspring who sat with enviable patience for their mothers’ return.

Once the wild dog vs lion excitement had abated, the group came over to join Shadreck and I. Everyone sat down to a well earned G&T and stunning African sunset; whilst enthusiastically discussing the events which had just been witnessed.”

Wow! Thanks Michael, what an incredible story to finish the Mobile season off with.

Well, from my side the team has returned to Mfuwe and have been reunited with their families. All the Mobiles kit has been packed into the container down here at Nkwali ready to go for next year. I can’t quite believe that it is already October, the season has gone incredibly quickly and the sightings just keep on pouring in. However, I think that we have had enough excitement for this week so I shall bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you all have a fabulous week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.






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It’s Monday 1st October and some familiar faces!

I do hope that you are all well and have had a wonderful weekend. Everything here has been going great guns, and scarily we are on the final countdown for the Mobile Walking Safaris this year; but you will hear from them soon don’t worry. The stories from the camps keep on piling in and I for one feel a certain pang of jealousy as I sit behind the desk writing my Its Monday, telling you of the fab sightings that we have been having. Suddenly, as if to make me feel better, an elephant with her calf literally pitch up at my office window and all is forgiven. But enough of that, let’s get on with those stories…

For those of us out here, obviously everyone who comes to visit is special but when we have familiar faces coming back year after year it is always lovely to see them; and we recently had Bill and Chris North come out. This time they were joined by their daughter Kate as her son happens to be our host at Luangwa River Camp – yes rather confusing I know. The only negative to come out of the visit was when Joe said to me, before they arrived, “gosh you have almost known them as long as I have”. There was a sideways glance of disapproval from me, however ultimately, I couldn’t deny it.

Anyway enough about discussing age and times gone by, let’s talk about their trip with us. We organized for Joe to take time off with them whilst they were all staying at Luangwa Safari House, and then whilst they were at Luangwa Safari House he was busy working under the watchful eye of Daudi. It was as always just lovely seeing them as they do rather feel like family really and we had a chance to introduce them to Jack, who gleefully wandered around Luangwa House then very excitedly spotted a giraffe outside the Copper Room. He came running in with his incomprehensible babble pointing frantically and we simply ignored him the first half dozen times, then eventually stood up and had a wonderful sighting of a giraffe not more than 10 meters away.

Aside from the herd upon herd of elephant that visited the house during siesta time and in fact all times of the day, they really had some magnificent sightings. Giraffes seemed to pop up all over the place and they reckon that they must have seen every single lion that was possible to see. The highlight on the lion front however had to be watching 5 lion cubs playing – how can anyone not enjoy that. The lions seemed to just be out to show off with cubs and sub-adults, as well as Garlic and Ginger and other prides of lion on the Luangwa River Camp side of the park. Now don’t start thinking that it is a guaranteed sighting, as we really do have periods where we just can’t even catch a glimpse of a lion however they were seriously out to impress the North clan.

Let us also not forget about the other special moments of time just spent relaxing in the house, sundowners on the banks of the Luangwa and surprise bush breakfasts which is an undeniable treat for all. Obviously, everyone was sad to part ways but hopefully there will be many more trips still to come. And, please let me take this opportunity to thank Kate for sharing her lovely photos with us all.

On that note I wonder if I should continue with my ramblings or leave you to your week ahead… I think I will choose the latter. So, I shall bid you all a very fond farewell from all of us here in the Luangwa. Hope that you have a fabulous week ahead, with lots of smiles and laughter and don’t forget to look after each other.


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It’s Monday 17th September and it’s busy!

So where to start? First with hello, and I hope that you are well and have had a fabulous weekend. Here in the Luangwa it’s been a feast for all interests, from birds to predators to all other mammals; and the game viewing hasn’t been restricted to just the game drives either.

In the camps there is now a constant flow of animals. Nkwali has decided that it is competing with Nsefu with the steady stream of elephants crossing the river in front of the bar. And whilst Nkwali may not be quite up there with the numbers yet, they have added giraffes into the mix! There is also a constant flow of banded mongoose through Nkwali who keep everyone aware of their presence with the gentle little chirping as they wander through foraging for whatever food they can find.

Hearing about all of this, Luangwa Safari House wanted to make sure that they were not forgotten with both hyena and leopard at breakfast on Friday; but I think that that’s just showing off! They have also had some lovely sightings of elephants from the hide which is a thrilling and novel angle to watch these magnificent animals.

This week Humphrey the Nkwali hippo found a friend in the form of a terrapin, who decided to spend the afternoon sitting on his back – I am so sorry but I didn’t manage to get a photo of this but take my word for it, the two of them got on like a house on fire! Oh, and also let’s not forget Boris the Spotted Bush Snake who we have mentioned a couple of times he has been seen visiting his stuffed toy friends in the Nkwali shop again.

Heading out on game drive… well the bird life has been spectacular and this week I don’t think Kiki has even ventured into the park as he has had some serious birding groups and not really made it as far as the pontoon! The carmine bee-eaters are firmly back in the valley and have started nesting, looking as always absolutely splendid with the rainbow of colours catching the sun as they bask on the river banks. There was also an incredible sighting of crowned cranes and the guest counted 105 at the salt pans behind Nkwali. This must be a record-breaking sighting it was quite impressive. The noise and dancing from the cranes was quite spectacular as they were all just getting together and catching up. The guests were in fact rendered speechless as was Kiki which is saying something.

Moving up in size, well Ginger and Garlic seem to have permanently moved to the Nkwali side of the park which has given us some pretty regular and great sightings. Over the weekend they decided that actually they would take a stroll down the bank opposite camp calling with all their might, which is a pretty impressive sound to go to sleep to.

Other than that and the steady stream of leopard sightings, the smaller game are also being seen in abundance. We also know that we are fast approaching October as the impalas are starting to get a little round around the middle as most of the adult females are pregnant. Isn’t it just incredible how they time the rut and gestation to coincide with the beginning of the rains – you have to marvel at mother-nature.

Down at Stanley Safari Lodge well they also been incredibly busy with the guests enjoying the escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and sitting up on the hill with the spectacular view down onto the Falls.

The water levels have dropped which means that all the water-based activities such as the rafting, swimming in the Devils Pools and trips to Livingstone Island are all in full swing and the source of much entertainment for our guests. For those who have taken a more cautious approach, they have been enjoying the wonderful access that we are afforded into Zimbabwe due to not only the easy immigration process but also the old bridge that straddles the gorge and where the slightly more adventurous amongst us decide to bungee jump off. From crossing the bridge, it is an easy stroll into Victoria Falls town which is steeped in history. The Victoria Falls Hotel serves a spectacular high tea bringing memories of a bygone era flooding back and then there is Victoria Falls Station where kings and queens along with famous actors have arrived over the years.

So there you have it, a little detour down to Livingstone at the end for you as well as all the wonderful wildlife sightings we have been having in the Valley. I should probably stop before I take you over to Malawi and news from there… let’s leave that for another week. So for this week it is time for me to bid you all a very fond farewell and hope that you have a wonderful week ahead, stay safe smile lots and don’t forget to look after each other.




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We’re dreaming of a GREEN Christmas…

We’re dreaming of a GREEN Christmas…

Counting down to the festive season… is your getaway booked already? Make it a green one this year and venture out to Southern Africa.

What to expect:
• A period of revitalization… plenty of new growth, dramatic skies, vibrant colours (the most outstanding being the emerald green! – with the purples, pinks and yellows of new flowers sprouting through).
• Influx of migratory birds with spirals of migrating storks, cuckoos and other “specials” like the African pitta.
• Butterflies escape their cocoons and flitter about everywhere.
• Great game viewing experiences.
• Fewer people around, making for more exclusive feel of all areas.

Where to stay:
Robin’s House & Luangwa Safari House: home away from home experiences in the Luangwa. Perfect for families or groups of friends looking to spend some much needed quality time together.
Nkwali: Christmas safari with friends or make new friends here. Whether a solo traveller, couple or family this will be a perfect place to safari and relax.
Stanley Safari Lodge: a mix of relaxation and adrenaline all in one destination. A great start or end to your safari experience is the Victoria Falls, Livingstone!

Pumulani, Lake Malawi: a beach holiday with a difference. Exclusive lodge offering ‘a place of rest’ as is the meaning ‘Pumulani’ in local language.
Mkulumadzi: perfect hideaway for that much needed R&R, Majete Wildlife Reserve. Perfectly serene setting offering a feeling of ideal retreat/getaway for the festive season.
Kuthengo Camp: a wonderful place to unwind and enjoy the festive season in Liwonde National Park.

Trip ideas…
Safari & Beach – 8 night combo. * South Luangwa * Lake Malawi *
Family Safari with RPS – 10 night combo. * Livingstone * South Luangwa * Lake Malawi *
RPS Exclusive – 10 night combo. * South Luangwa * Majete * Lake Malawi *
Warm Heart – 8 night combo. * Majete * Liwonde * Lake Malawi *

Normal terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.

Contact us for further details.

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Es ist Montag 30 Juli 2018 und ein ganz besonderer Aufenthalt im Luangwa Safari House

Ich hoffe, Ihr hattet ein schönes Wochenende und seid gerüstet, um von einem erinnerungswürdigen Erlebnis zu erfahren, das wir vor kurzem im Luangwa Safari House ermöglichen konnten. Zwar ist jeder Ausflug von hier aus in die Wildnis ein besonderes Erlebnis, doch manchmal gelingt es, durch Integration einer kleinen Überraschung den Erlebniswert noch zu steigern, so wie kürzlich bei einer Familie, die uns im Luangwa House besucht hatte. Deborah übernimmt an dieser Stelle von mir, bevor ich Gefahr laufe, die Pointe vorweg zu nehmen.

“Paul und ich besuchten South Luangwa für eine Abschiedsparty mit unseren Freunden und ihren drei Kindern, die nach einem dreijährigen Aufenthalt in Malawi in die Vereinigten Staaten zurückkehren. Sie waren letztes Jahr in Robin Pope’s Luangwa House zu einer Geburtstagsfeier und hatten uns von ihren wundervollen Erfahrungen dort erzählt. Seither träumten wir davon, selbst einmal den Naturschutz in der Robin-Pope-Konzession zu erleben. Wir waren überwältigt von der Vielzahl an Wildtieren in dem Gebiet, in dem es keine Zäune gibt, was die erfolgreichen Bemühungen zur Bekämpfung der Wilderei und die Partnerschaft mit den lokalen Gemeinden für den Wildschutz deutlich unterstreicht. Als wir zum Luangwa House fuhren, kreuzte unser Weg einige Meter entfernt mit dem von Elefanten und eine Giraffe begrüßte uns auf dem Parkplatzgelände. Es ist unglaublich zu sehen, wie vertraut die Tiere mit dem Geschehen am Luangwa Safari House sind.

An unserem zweiten Tag wurde die morgendliche Safari von einem Rudel Hyänen und von 12 Löwen gekrönt, die einen Büffel fraßen. Als wir uns auf unsere Sundowner-Fahrt vorbereiteten, dachte ich mir: “Wir haben alles gesehen, was wir uns vorstellen können. Es gibt eigentlich keine Möglichkeit mehr, dieses Erlebnis noch zu steigern.” Doch weit gefehlt! Die Sonne näherte sich dem Horizont, als wir einen Hügel hinauffuhren und der Wagen plötzlich stoppte. Vor uns standen zwei Campingstühle, ein Tisch mit Snacks und einer Flasche Champagner darauf, die ganze Szene umrahmt von blauen Windlichtern. Im Nachhinein hätte ich vielleicht ahnen können, dass der Champagner auf einen besonderen Anlass hinweisen würde, doch im Augenblick des Geschehens hatte ich keine Vorstellung von dem, was kommen würde. (Paul und ich sind seit dreieinhalb Jahren zusammen. Wir haben schon früher mal über die Ehe gesprochen, aber ohne konkrete Vorstellung davon, wann dies auf unserer Agenda stehen würde.) Eines der Kinder in unserer Gruppe versuchte, vom Fahrzeug auszusteigen, wurde aber zum Bleiben gebeten. Ich schaute rüber und sah plötzlich Paul außerhalb des Wagens, der mir bedeutete, ihm zu folgen. Die Szene war unglaublich. Wir beobachteten einen grandiosen afrikanischen Sonnenuntergang, mit Blick ins Tal und die Silhouette des Steilhangs im Hintergrund. Es kam mir vor wie die Szene aus einem romantischen Liebesfilm. Mir wird noch einmal klar, wie unglaublich Paul ist und ich beginne, über unsere gemeinsamen Jahre nachzudenken. Er sieht, dass ich den Tränen nah bin und er fragt mich, woran ich gerade denke. Ich antworte: “Wie glücklich ich bin.” Er nimmt meine Hand, fällt auf ein Knie und fragt, ob ich ihn heiraten würde! Ich weine für die nächsten 15 Minuten und neige meinen Kopf auf und ab, um meine Antwort zu geben — “Ja!” Der South Luangwa Nationalpark trug zu den Feierlichkeiten mit drei weiteren Löwen bei, die wir sahen, bevor wir zu einem köstlichen Abendessen zurückkehrten.

Ich möchte Matt, Sebastian und den Rest des Personals im Luangwa Safari House danken. Sie haben unseren Aufenthalt unvergesslich gemacht. Sie waren nicht nur unglaublich intuitiv, aufmerksam und gastfreundlich, sie halfen auch meinem Verlobten, seinen geheimen Plan zu organisieren.”

Nun, wenn das nicht herzzerreißend ist, dann weiß ich auch nicht. Ich entschuldige mich aufrichtig bei Euch Männern da draußen, und hoffe, dass Eure Partnerin nach dieser Lektüre nicht Eure romantische Ader in Frage stellt!

Paul und Deborah, Herzliche Glückwünsche und vielen Dank, dass Ihr Euer Erlebnis mit uns geteilt habt. Wir hoffen, Euch bald wieder hier im Tal begrüßen zu dürfen, wo Ihr weitere Erinnerungen sammeln könnt.

Alles andere im Tal hat sich in hektischem Hochsaison-Tempo entwickelt, wir hatten viele wunderbare Tierbegegnungen, und einen neuerlichen Besuch von Simon Cousins mit einigen Kunden, die wie immer großartige Wildbeobachtungen hatten, von denen hier einige Fotos berichten.

Ich danke Euch allen und hoffe, dass Ihr eine tolle Woche mit viel Grund zum Lachen habt, und vergesst nicht, aufeinander Acht zu geben.



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It’s Monday 30th July 2018 and a very special stay at Luangwa Safari House!

I do hope that you are all fabulously well and sitting comfortably ready to read about the latest memory that we have helped create, this time at Luangwa Safari House. Obviously every trip out is special but some of them become even more special when there is a little surprise in store. We had a family out recently to Luangwa House for which this was truly the case. Deborah is now going to graciously take over from me and tell you all what happened and I am not going to ruin the surprise.

“Paul and I visited South Luangwa for a going away party with our friends and their three children, who are returning to the United States after a three-year tour in Malawi. They stayed at Robin Pope’s Luangwa House last year for a birthday celebration and had told us about their wonderful experience there. Entering the Robin Pope concession was like arriving at a conservationist’s dream. We were blown away by the amount of wildlife found in an area unblemished by the presence of fences, which strongly highlights the anti-poaching efforts and community partnership for wildlife preservation. As we were driving up to Luangwa House, we crossed paths with elephants a few metres away from our vehicle and a giraffe greeted us in the car park area. It was incredible to see how comfortable the animals felt coming to the house.

On our second day at Luangwa House, the morning safari was marked by 12 lions eating a buffalo and a pack of hyenas. As we prepared for our sundowner drive, I thought to myself, “We have seen everything we could possibly imagine. There is no way this trip could get better.” Little did I know! The sun was nearing the horizon as we made our way up a hill when suddenly the vehicle stops. There were two foldable canvas camping chairs surrounded by blue hurricane lanterns and a table with snacks and a bottle of champagne. Hindsight, I should have noticed that the champagne would have marked a special occasion, but I had no idea of what was to come. (See, Paul and I have been dating for 3 and a half years. We have talked about marriage before, but with no concrete idea of when it would be on our timeline.) One of the children in our party was trying to hop out of the vehicle, but was asked to stay seated. I looked over and suddenly see Paul out of the vehicle, motioning for me to get out and I hesitated having just seen the child being told to stay seated but eventually made my way out. The scene was incredible. We watched a signature golden African sunset, with a view into the valley and the silhouette of the escarpment in the background. It felt like a scene out of a romance film. I start to get emotional thinking about how incredible Paul is and reflecting on our years together. He sees that I am starting to tear up and he asks me what I’m thinking about. I reply, “How happy I am.” He takes my hand, drops down to one knee, and asks if I would marry him! I proceed to cry for the next 15 minutes and nod my head up and down to give my answer – Yes! South Luangwa joined us in the celebrations by allowing us to spot three more lions before heading home to delicious dinner.

I want to take a moment to thank Matt, Sebastian, and the rest of the staff at the Luangwa Safari House. They made our stay unforgettable. Not only were they amazingly intuitive, attentive and hospitable, they also helped my now-fiancé organise the proposal.”

Well if that doesn’t tug at the heart-strings then I don’t know what will and I sincerely apologise to all men out there reading this and hoping that respective partners are not going to come home and question your romantic streak!

Paul and Deborah congratulations and thank you so very much for sharing your experience with us and let’s hope that we will see you back out in the valley again soon for more memories.

Everything else in the valley has been plodding along at its rather hectic peak season pace and we have had plenty of wonderful sightings to speak of including another visit from Simon Cousins and some clients who as always had great game-viewing and here are a few photos from their latest trip.

Thanks everyone and hope that you all have a fabulous week with plenty of smiles and laughter and as always don’t forget to look after each other.



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Es ist Montag 23 Juli 2018 und wir lassen Bilder sprechen!

Ich hoffe es geht Dir gut, Du bist entspannt und blickst auf ein tolles Wochenende zurück. Was gibt es Neues aus dem Luangwa-Tal? Nun, diese Woche werde ich versuchen, nicht zu viel zu schreiben, sondern stattdessen ein paar unglaubliche Fotos von einer erfolgreichen Leopardenjagd sprechen zu lassen. Letzten Monat besuchten uns Marie und Denis Grenouillet sowohl in Tena Tena als auch in Nsefu, und während ihres Aufenthalts hatten sie unglaubliche Tierbegegnungen, darunter als Höhepunkt folgender Riss eines Leoparden im Tageslicht.

Sie haben diesen Kampf zwischen einer relativ kleinen Leopardin und dem stattlichen Impala-Bock von Anfang bis Ende miterlebt. Wenn es auch immer traurig ist, das Sterben eines Tieres zu sehen, so müssen wir dennoch stets bedenken, dass dieses ‚Fressen und Gefressen-Werden’ das Gesetz der Natur ist und nur so als Ergebnis des Kampfes das Überleben des Leoparden möglich ist.

Also für heute empfehle ich Eurer Aufmerksamkeit diese unglaubliche Fotostrecke:

Marie und Denis danke ich dafür, dass sie diese Bilder mit uns geteilt haben, und Euch empfehle ich einen Besuch ihrer Website voller wunderbarer Bilder aus aller Welt, so auch der gesamten Strecke von dem Leoparden-Kill.

Von unseren mobilen Wandersafaris erreichen mich Nachrichten über eine ganze Reihe unglaublicher Tierbegegnungen mit Löwen, jeder Menge Elefanten und sogar einem Erdferkel! Kanga geht nächste Woche wieder hinauf, und so bin ich sicher, dass wir bald weitere Geschichten erzählen können. Auch von den übrigen Camps gibt es tolle Berichte, auf die ich diese Woche nicht weiter eingehen werde, da mir die Zeit davonläuft, doch nur ein kleines Update von der flauschigen Front – bei Nsefu gibt es Hyänenwelpen, die ja immer wunderbar anzusehen sind.

Bevor ich mich also in weiteren Geschichten aus dem Busch verliere, ziehe ich mich zurück, nicht ohne Euch allen eine schöne Woche mit viel Grund zur Freude zu wünschen, und vergesst wie immer nicht, aufeinander Acht zu geben.



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It’s Monday 23rd July 2018 and time for the photos to do the talking

I do hope that you are well, sitting comfortably and have of course had a fabulous weekend. So what news from the Luangwa Valley? Well this week I am going to try not to talk too much and instead I am going to let some incredible photos of a leopard-kill do the talking. Last month we had Marie and Denis Grenouillet stay with us up at both Tena Tena and Nsefu and over their stay they had some incredible sightings, however this amazing daytime leopard kill really was the highlight.

They witnessed this battle between a relatively small female leopard and this rather large male impala from start to finish. Whilst it is always sad to see an animal’s life ending let’s also remember that this is nature and survival and at the same time there is a beauty to the battle and the life that is given to the leopard as a result.

So for this week over to these incredible photos:

Marie and Denis thank you so much for sharing these with us and for those of you who are interested take a look at their website, it’s full of wonderful wildlife images from around the world on

Other than that it’s all been happening up at Mobiles with a whole host of incredible sightings including lions, loads of elephants and even an aardvark! Kanga heads back up there next week so I am sure we will have more stories coming back to us. The rest of the camps have also been having some amazing sightings which I am not going to go into too much this week as I am running out of time but just a little update from the cute fluffy side — there are hyena pups up at Nsefu which are always just wonderful to watch.

So before I find myself delving into more tales of the bush I am going to whisk myself away and wish you all another fabulous week ahead with plenty of smiles and laughter and as always don’t forget to look after each other.



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World Ranger Day Interview with Conservation South Luangwa

Every day brave rangers set out to protect our wildlife and put their lives on the line to keep the innocent animals we adore so much safe. World Ranger Day, which is observed annually on the 31st of July, is a chance to honour the rangers killed or injured in the line of duty and to celebrate the critical work they do to protect our natural heritage for future generations.

This year marks the 10th anniversary of World Ranger Day, supported by the International Ranger Federation, their partner the Thin Green Line Foundation, and by individuals who support the work of rangers and the IRF, such as Rachel McRobb, the founder of Conservation South Luangwa.

“Witnessing the countless horrors of poaching over and over again, especially the senseless results of snaring of all species, made me get up and try to help,” says McRobb, who’s been at the forefront of conservation in South Luangwa since the organization’s inception back in 2003.

In a recent interview with us, McRobb held nothing back and talked about elephant extinction, sniffer dogs and the biggest challenges that lie ahead for one of Africa’s greatest national parks.

Robin Pope Safaris: What is an average day for a ranger in South Luangwa?

Rachel McRobb: Rangers /scouts are typically out on long 10-day patrols which could be reactive or proactive, or they may be on an anti-snaring day patrol, an ambush as a result of intelligence or attending to snared animal issues with myself and our vet. The work is intense and demanding and covers large tracts of land and with no luxuries as we know it.

RPS: What risks are involved for the rangers on the ground?

RM: There are daily risks from being shot at or attacked by poachers, ousted by communities and risks from being attacked by dangerous animals (crocodiles, elephants, buffalo and so forth).

RPS: Have there been any incidents of death or injury of a ranger as a result of poachers or other conservation activities?

RM: Luckily, Conservation South Luangwa has not lost anyone to a poaching incident as a result of gunfire, however we have sadly lost a couple of scouts over the years to animal attacks and vehicle accidents as a result of conservation work.

RPS: How has the introduction of sniffer dogs assisted in your activities?

RM: Our detection dog unit has greatly increased our results and also acts as a deterrent to would be traffickers; they need to think twice now about which route to be on in case the dogs are present. We currently have 5 dogs and 8 handlers and have just started training the dogs to track as well as detect so we expect this to help even more.

RPS: How has technology helped/hindered your conservation efforts?

RM: Cell phones are both a help and a hindrance. They are useful a lot of the time but also poachers use them so it makes it harder for us as everyone is informing everyone. Other technology such a thermal imagery is definitely helpful and investigations and intelligence databases help us too.

RPS: How do you deal with the conflict between human rights and animal rights?

RM: We have a human wildlife conflict mitigation project that helps communities to mitigate conflict in particular with elephants.

RPS: Which animal faces the biggest threat of poaching?

RM: Currently elephants in Luangwa are under threat, but we cannot forget about the hundreds and hundreds of small game caught in snares every year.

RPS: How big is the threat of extinction for the African elephant?

RM: Bigger than most of us can imagine.

RPS: What is the main reason for the poaching of these animals? Bush meat, ivory/horns/skin, human animal conflict etc.?

RM: Ivory at the moment.

RPS: What tools are poachers using for their activities?

RM: Muzzle loading guns and sport rifles for large game and often snares for small game.

RPS: How do you prioritize, with so many species in danger?

RM: Reducing elephant poaching is our main priority right now.

RPS: How do you think population increase has an effect on the future of Zambia’s wildlife?

RM: This will have huge implications as people need land to farm and this is happening at a drastic rate on the boundaries of the national park.

RPS: What is the biggest challenge you face in wildlife conservation?

RM: Loss of habitat, human encroachment, political will and funding and resources.

RPS: What can we, as average citizens, do in our everyday lives to confront these issues?

RM: Tread lightly on the earth and leave as little negative impact as possible. This can range from littering, use of plastic bottles, electrical use, not cutting down trees, supporting conservation causes of your choice. Small steps go a long way. No need to try and save the whole world, just the part around you.

RPS: What has been your greatest achievement in your conservation efforts?

RM: Keeping CSL an almost wholly Zambian run organization, developing Zambian citizens and being proud to have so many Zambians in our organization working hard to protect South Luangwa’s wildlife.

RPS: How do you see the future of South Luangwa’s wildlife?

RM: In the long term, precarious. We need a solid land use plan for the game management areas that will limit uncontrolled development in the game management areas with a clear view in acting as a buffer zone for the national park. Unless this is achieved South Luangwa National Park will eventually become an island like most other parks in the world.

For every night you stay at one of our South Luangwa camps, we donate $5 to the Luangwa Conservation Community Fund which supports Conservation South Luangwa.


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Es ist Montag 16 Juli 2018 und jede Menge Sterne in Mkulumadzi

Hallo, ich hoffe, es geht dir gut und Du hattest wie immer ein tolles Wochenende. Für diese Woche schweige ich und wir erfahren von unseren Managern Dave und Tammy, was bei ihnen unten in Mkulumadzi los ist. Dave und Tammy, Ihr habt das Wort:

“Die Sonne scheint wieder in der Mkulumadzi Lodge. Nach fünf Tagen unerwartetem, aber dringend benötigtem Regen (diesjährig haben wir eine heftige Trockenzeit) ist die Sonne zur Freude der meisten Gäste zurückgekehrt. Warum nur die meisten? Nun, wir haben einige besondere Gäste wie Dr. Uschi und Professor Keith McEwen, die den Busch bei jedem Wetter zu schätzen wissen. Sie würden sich nicht von ein wenig Regen davon abhalten lassen, das Lagerfeuer zu genießen, das sie so sehr lieben. Vor kurzem saßen sie mit Regenschirm an der Feuerstelle und ihre unstillbare Begeisterung für den afrikanischen Busch hat uns alle tief bewegt. Die Erinnerung ist noch ganz frisch.
Der Höhepunkt der Saison war definitiv die Einweihung unseres Sternen-Bettes. Wir waren begeistert, als Naomi und Adam aus London es als erste Gäste ausprobieren wollten. Naomi war so freundlich, uns an ihrem Erlebnis teilhaben zu lassen:

“Wir waren für drei Nächte in der Mkulumadzi Lodge. Ich hatte die Zeit bereits in vollen Zügen genossen, die wunderschöne Lage, das freundliche Personal und die tolle Tierbeobachtung, und ich war mir nicht sicher, ob eine Steigerung überhaupt möglich wäre. Doch zu meinem Geburtstag überraschte mich mein Freund mit einer Nacht auf dem Sternen-Deck. Ich war anfangs etwas unsicher – unter den Sternen schlafen? Mit den Löwen? Hatte ich mich doch gerade erst an die Spinnen in der Lodge gewöhnt! Tammy und Dave jedoch versicherten mir, dass wir in Sicherheit wären und überließen uns ein Funkgerät, falls etwas passieren sollte oder wir zurückkommen wollten.
Als wir durch die Dunkelheit fuhren und uns dem Sternen-Deck näherten, war ich sogleich zuversichtlich, dass dies eine ganz besondere Erfahrung werden würde, die ich nicht missen will. Das Deck ist eine erhöhte Plattform mit Blick auf den Park, komplett eingerichtet mit Bett, Moskitonetz und (meiner Meinung nach sehr wichtig) einer richtigen Toilette. Wir saßen im Licht des (annähernden) Vollmondes, tranken Champagner und schauten in den wunderschönen Sternenhimmel, und ich empfand dies als etwas ganz Besonderes. Der Schlaf war sehr bequem — ich blickte in den Nachthimmel und genoss die sanfte Kühlung durch eine leichte Brise. Wir fühlen uns sehr geehrt, die ersten Gäste gewesen zu sein, die das Sternen-Deck probiert haben und es ist sicherlich ein Geburtstag, den ich nie vergessen werde! Ich kann es nur jedem empfehlen, der keine Angst hat, mal etwas Außergewöhnliches zu probieren — diese Nacht war die Krönung eines tollen Aufenthaltes in Majete.”

Hier noch einige aufregende Neuigkeiten aus Majete. Im Mai wurden erneut zwei junge Löwen aus Südafrika in das Reservat umgesiedelt. Sie haben sich in einem Gehege auf ihre neue Umgebung eingestellt. Nächste Woche werden noch drei Löwinnen in das Gehege kommen, um sich dort zu akklimatisieren. Kurz vor ihrer Ankunft werden die männlichen Löwen freigelassen. Ziel ist es, neues Erbgut in die Population einzuführen, um das genetische Gleichgewicht zu erhalten. Wir freuen uns auf ihre Ankunft und werden beobachten, wie sie sich in der neuen Heimat eingewöhnen.

Neu im Team für diese Saison ist unser deutscher Praktikant Felix Reitberger, der sich in Mkulumadzi gut eingelebt hat — er unterstützt uns bei der täglichen Arbeit, der Gästebetreuung und bei der Tierbeobachtung. Nach dem Studium der Medienfotografie bieten ihm unsere wunderschöne Landschaft und Tierwelt reichlich Gelegenheit, seine Talente zu beweisen, sei es bei Pirschfahrten, Bootstouren oder Wanderungen. Auf einer kürzlichen Bootsfahrt auf dem Fluss Shire hat Felix folgende brillante Aufnahmen gemacht: ein Nilpferd, das aus dem Wasser springt, ein Graufischer mit Beute und ein Krokodil bei der Rückkehr zum Fluss.

Ich kann es kaum erwarten, mehr von seinen fantastischen Fotos zu sehen, während Felix in der Lodge beschäftigt ist.

Jede Jahreszeit im Busch hat etwas Besonderes. Was sich auch diesen Winter wieder bestätigt. Unsere drei ansässigen Bullen sind zur Lodge zurückgekehrt, um uns zu unterhalten. Wir hatten fantastische Wildbeobachtungen, einschließlich großer Herden von Elefanten und Büffeln, oder scheue Leoparden und schwarze Nashörner. Wir sind erst Mitte der Saison und freuen uns auf jede Menge Spannung in Mkulumadzi. Tschüss und eine schöne Woche!’

Vielen Dank Dave und Tammy, wir freuen uns darauf, im Verlauf der Saison mehr von Euch zu erfahren. Von meiner Seite gibt es nicht viel zu sagen, außer Euch eine tolle Woche mit viel Freude zu wünschen, und wie immer meine Aufforderung, aufeinander Acht zu geben.

Posted in 2018, Es ist Montag | Comments closed

It’s Monday 16th July 2018 and stars abound at Mkulumadzi!

I do hope that you are well and as always have had a fab weekend. So for this week I am keeping quiet and we are hearing from Dave and Tammy our management team down at Mkulumadzi on what has been happening in their neck of the woods. Dave and Tammy over to you:

“The sun is again shining at Mkulumadzi Lodge. After 5 days of unexpected, but much needed, rain (this is the dry season after all), the sun has returned to the delight of most guests. Why most? Well, we have some special guests like Dr. Uschi and Prof. Keith McEwen who appreciate the bush in any weather. They wouldn’t let a little rain keep them from enjoying the evening fire they love so much. Sitting under umbrellas at the lapa recently, their true spirit and love for the African bush warmed all of our hearts. The memory is still with us.
The highlight of the season has definitely been our star bed. We were thrilled when Naomi and Adam from London wanted to be our first guests to try it out. Naomi has been kind enough to share their experience with us:

“We were staying for three nights at Mkulumadzi Lodge. I was already having an amazing time, with a beautiful location, super friendly staff and some great animal viewing and I wasn’t sure that it could get any better. However, for my birthday, my boyfriend decided to surprise me with a night staying on the star deck. I was initially a little unsure — sleeping out under the stars? With the lions? I had only just got used to the spiders in the lodge! Tammy and Dave assured me that we would be completely safe and left us with a radio, in case anything did happen or we wanted to come back.

As we drove through the darkness and approached the star deck I felt confident, however, that this would be a very special experience and one that I wouldn’t want to miss out on. The deck is a raised platform looking out over the park, complete with proper bed, mosquito net and (very importantly in my view) a proper toilet. We sat drinking champagne under the light of the (almost) full moon looking at the stars which were beautiful and I was right that this was very special. Sleeping was very comfortable too — looking up at the night sky, gently cooled by a light breeze. I feel very honoured to have been the first guests to try the star deck and it’s certainly a birthday that I will never forget! I would absolutely recommend it to all who aren’t afraid to try something a little different — it really did top off a wonderful stay in Majete.”

Some exciting news for Majete. In May, two new, young lions were translocated from South Africa to the reserve. They have been adjusting to their new environment in a boma. Next week, 3 females will also arrive to be held in the boma to also acclimatize and settle. Just before their arrival, the male lions will be released. The goal is to introduce new genetics into the population to maintain genetic health. We are looking forward to their arrival and watching them settle into their new home.

New to the team for the season is our German intern, Felix Reitberger who has fit right (“Reit” — get it??) in at Mkulumadzi, assisting with daily operations, hosting guests and spotting. Having studied media photography, our beautiful landscape and wildlife provide ample opportunities to practice his talents whether on a game drive, boating or walking. On a recent boat cruise on the Shire River, Felix brilliantly captured the following images: a hippo popping out of the water, a Pied Kingfisher with its prey and a crocodile returning to the river.

Can’t wait to see more of his amazing photos while keeping him busy around the lodge.

Every season in the bush is special in its own way. This winter is no different. Our 3 resident bulls have returned to the lodge to keep us entertained. We have had fantastic game sightings including large herds of elephants and buffalos along with the elusive leopard and black rhino recently. We are only mid-way through the season and look forward to plenty of excitement around Mkulumadzi. Cheers! Enjoy your week.”

Thanks so much Dave and Tammy, we look forward to hearing more from you as the season progresses. From my side not much left to say except have a fab week ahead with lots of smiles and laughter and as always look after each other.



Posted in 2018, It's Monday | Comments closed

Es ist Montag 9 Juli 2018 und die erste Walkingsafari der Saison

Hallo, ich hoffe es geht Euch gut und Ihr hattet ein schönes Wochenende mit viel Spaß und Freude an der Fußballweltmeisterschaft. Hier im Luangwa-Tal haben die mobilen Wandersafaris mit gehörigem Aufsehen, tollen Tierbeobachtungen und viel Spaß begonnen. Daher freue ich mich außerordentlich, Eure Aufmerksamkeit für diese Woche auf den Mupamadzi zu lenken und mit freundlicher Genehmigung von Miranda und David Jollie aus deren Bericht zu zitieren — Miranda, Du hast das Wort:

“Es sind fünf Jahre seit unserem letzten Besuch im South Luangwa Nationalpark vergangen – viel zu lange. Unsere letzte Reise war mit einem Besuch in der Liuwa-Ebene verbunden, wo wir Kanga (der uns dort führte) wie auch Jason kennenlernten, und uns nach deren Erzählungen vorgenommen hatten, das nächste Mal die Mobile Walkingsafari zu machen. Das uns jetzt endlich mögliche Datum war zugleich die erste Tour der Saison.

Mit einer Gruppe von Leuten, die du erst am Tag zuvor kennengelernt hast, fünf Tage im Busch zu verbringen, ist an sich schon ein Abenteuer, doch dies als erste Gruppe des Jahres zu erleben, wirkte besonders herausfordernd. Als wir zu siebt (sechs Gäste plus Jason) den Land Cruiser bestiegen, hatten wir das echte Gefühl, tatsächlich in die Wildnis aufzubrechen. Während einer Kaffeepause zeigte uns Jason anhand seiner Karte, wie weit die mobilen Lager von anderen Camps entfernt waren. Wir würden die ersten Menschen sein, die die Tiere seit mehr als einem halben Jahr zu Gesicht bekämen. Zusammen mit einem umfassenden Abriss zu Geschichte, Geographie und Ökologie des Luangwa-Tals erklärte Jason, dass die Faszination im Mupamadzi-Gebiet nicht zuletzt darin bestünde, zu sehen, wie Tiere auf uns reagieren – zu Fuß wären wir integraler Teil ihrer Welt, und weniger fremde Eindringlinge auf einem Fahrzeug.

Als erste Gruppe des Jahres könnte man ein paar Kinderkrankheiten beim Aufbau und Betrieb der Camps erwarten. Doch weit gefehlt. Camp One war bereit und Michael erwartete uns bei der Ankunft mit kaltem Bier. All die Annehmlichkeiten konventioneller Safaris waren aufgeboten – Sundowner, Nachmittagskuchen, leckeres Essen, heiße Duschen – doch die Kuchen wurden in einem Loch im Boden gebacken und die Dusche kam aus einem Eimer. Es ist schwierig, einzelne Mitarbeiter hervorzuheben, weil alle so ausnehmend gut waren, aber eine Person, die uns besonders begeisterte, war Jeffrey, den wir noch von Liuwa her als Kellner kannten. Mit Adleraugen gesegnet absolviert er derzeit eine Ausbildung zum Wildnisführer, begleitete uns bei den Wanderungen, und scheint die gesamte Zeit nicht geschlafen zu haben, da er uns jeden Morgen berichtete, wo die Löwen gebrüllt hatten während wir selig schliefen!

Wandern in dieser abgelegenen Gegend birgt eine Fülle von Safari-Erfahrungen, die sonst nicht möglich sind. Jason brachte uns bei, wie man steinzeitliche Werkzeuge erkennt, die in den meisten Schluchten und steinigen Gebieten zu finden sind – anscheinend lebten früher mehr Leute hier als jetzt! Wir hörten Leoparden bei der Paarung und Löwenbrüllen zum Sundowner. Wir vernahmen ein leises Rascheln als das einzige Geräusch, während Elefanten nur wenige Meter von uns entfernt durch das Gras zogen. Wir wateten durch den Fluss und gingen zu den abgelegenen Chifungwe Plains, wo wir auf einem kleinen Bergrücken Tee tranken und eine Elefantenherde beobachteten, die auf einen Drink ins Tal lief und sich am Fluss suhlen wollte. Plötzlich drehten sich alle um und rannten zurück, wie sie gekommen waren – sie hatten wohl unseren Geruch gewittert auf einem Weg, den wir zuvor entlang gegangen waren. Faszinierend der Moment dann als sie zurück über die Ebenen gingen und zu einem anderen Weg kamen, den wir an diesem Tag ebenso passiert hatten. Die Leitkuh an der Spitze der Kolonne hielt inne und wir meinten fast, ihre Gedanken lesen zu können, wie sie die potenzielle Bedrohung beurteilte. Diesmal war sie weniger besorgt und die Herde zog weiter. Die Gewöhnung an unsere Gegenwart geschah vor unseren Augen. Kurz darauf rief Super-Spotter Jeffrey vom Ende unserer Gruppe “Lions!” Ein Rudel lag auf einer Anhöhe wenige Meter entfernt. Jason erkannte sie als das Rudel, dem er letztes Jahr gefolgt war und das ihn mit Sorge erfüllt hatte, da zwar Junge, aber kein männlicher Löwe dazu gehörten – er hatte befürchtet, dass sich ein rudelloser Löwe an die Spitze der Gruppe setzen könnte und dazu alle männlichen Jungen töten würde. Nicht nur die Weibchen waren zusammen, die Jungen waren ebenso da. Wir waren die Ersten, die sahen, dass das Rudel es unbeschadet durch die Regenzeit geschafft hatte.

Doch nicht nur die Tierwelt macht die mehrtägige Wandersafari so besonders – fern von Fernsehen, Internet und all den anderen Dingen, auf die wir uns im Alltag verlassen, ist hier eine Gelegenheit, an der sich gute Gesellschaft und Geschichtenerzählen bewähren. Gemeinsam am Feuer oder beim Sonnenuntergang werden aus einer Gruppe Fremder beste Freunde. Ich hatte noch nie einen Urlaub, in dem ich so viel gelacht habe.”

Wow, vielen Dank Miranda und David, und nur als kleine Ergänzung der Hinweis, dass wir diese fabelhafte Karte, die Jason von der Reise und den Wanderungen, sowie den wesentlichen Highlights bei der Tierbeobachtung gemacht hat, zusammenstellte haben.

Um ehrlich zu sein gibt es von meiner Seite wirklich sehr wenig, was ich noch beitragen könnte, da Miranda die Magie der Mobilen Wandersafari so treffend beschrieben hat – diese völlige Entfernung von modernen Technologien, denen wir uns so verbunden fühlen, zugleich tolle Gesellschaft, atemberaubende Landschaft und wunderbare Tierwelt — gibt es eigentlich noch eine Steigerung?

So wünsche ich Euch eine tolle Woche mit viel Grund zur Freude, und vergesst nicht, aufeinander Acht zu geben.



Posted in 2018, Es ist Montag | Comments closed